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Models > GLTR1670AS0 > Instructions

GLTR1670AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for GLTR1670AS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GLTR1670AS0
31-45 of 338
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broken drum vane needed replacing

  • Customer: Eugene from Westbrook, ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Front-loading Frigidaire washer made by Electrolux:
I removed the one phillips screw that secures the drum, but found the vane did not slide toward the front as I'd read it should. Nor was I able to squeeze the base to release it. I ended up using a rubber mallet and screwdriver to spring the snaps at the bottom of the vane. Once I had two of these on the same side out, I was able to slide the vane forward and remove it. Turns out there was a metal tab, part of the drum, bent into the vane so it couldn't slide for removal. I bent this tab down even with the drum surface, and the new vane slid in easily.

Vibration/shock absorbers broke off.

  • Customer: Arne from Nome, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the the two screws holding access panel on the bottom front. Shocks use two plastic retaining pins on each shock. Used a screwdriver to push down on the locking tab on the plastic retaining pin ant pushed out. One of the pins is behind the water pump and a bit harder to access. I used a socket with an extension to push it out. installed new shocks with old pins and was back in business. Shocks go in a certain way so be sure to look at the instructions that come with the replacement shocks. Note: the replacment shocks that came don't look anything like the originals. Originals looked more like an automotive shock. Also as both shocks were broken, I ordered two, not knowing that they come two to a package. When you order that is not clear. So now I have an extra set, which might not be bad to have on hand. Kit also comes with an extra pin in case you break one.

Set aside time (6-8 hours), not rocket science, but long

  • Customer: David from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Clear a work space, set up bins for parts, there are a lot of them, so upon removal, put all parts in same place (motor bolts in same box as motor, etc), use a digital camera to capture where everything goes.
Remove back, remove front lower access panel. Remove all plumbing from tug. Remove belt and large pulley from back (tap gently with mallet around perimeter to remove). Unhook motor wire connector, cut the zip tie. Remove the motor (4 bolts). Separate the front seal, remove the shock absorbers (use a deep socket to push in plastic tabs). Now the fun part, carefully tilt the washer back to the floor (2 people, it is heavy), while supporting the tub, to keep it from over swaying (I cut a 2x4 to size, put it between the tub and the lips of the side walls to keep it in place).
You should now be able to remove the springs (leverage them out with old screw driver), clear all parts from the tub. You can then lift the washer housing from the tub vertically. You should then be able to access the tub clearly. Remove the counter weights, set aside carefully, they are fragile. Remove the bolts holding the tub together.
Tap out the tub.
Reverse the process to put back together. Careful not to over tighten the bolts on counter weights or motor.

locking mechanism spring broke

  • Customer: laura from willow creek, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Watched video which was very helpful

water continued to flow into machine during spin cycle

  • Customer: Howard from Lcolnton, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Washer would leak water out the bottom.

  • Customer: Larry from East Point, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws holding the front panel on and removed the panel. The hose is held on by two spring clips and a hose clamp. After getting those out of the way, I removed the damaged hose and slid the new one into place and fastening it down with the aforementioned clips and clamp.

H2O leaking on final spin

  • Customer: judd from jax, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
drum vane had a hole in it replaced it using phillips screwdriver removed one screw ,pulled drum vane towards the door then pulled up replaced it reversing the procedure. It actually seemed to fix my leak during spin cycle

Drained but would not spin

  • Customer: Gregory from Louisville, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was figuring out how to get the lid off. You simply remove two screws from the back of the lid and jerk and slide the lid towards the back of the machine. Take out the screws that hold the front panel on, tilt the front out and access the lock/switch assembly and replace.

Every time the washer went to spin it walked accross the room

  • Customer: Gerard from Wilson, WY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock. Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new.

No Cold Water

  • Customer: Mark from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.

The washer wouldn't spin at all.

  • Customer: Leah from Ramsey, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the washer. Then I unscrewed the two screws on the back, top edge of the washer. and lifted the top off. Next I unscrewed the door lock/switch assembly, reached down in the machine from the top and pulled the switch out. As I unplugged each one of the three plugs from the bad part, I plugged them into the corresponding connections of the good part. Then I screwed the switch back into place, replaced the top of the washer and screwed it back on. I set the washer spin and cheered madly when it went into spin mode. The hardest part was actually turning the screws because I'm a small woman and my hand strength is not what it used to be. But really there was nothing difficult about this repair.

Washer would not spin

  • Customer: Terri from Glennville, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Ran diagnostic and discovered that the panel did not recognize that the door was locked, thus no spin. I ordered both parts, although I didn't need the door strike/catch. I only needed the locking mechanism. I removed metal ring from around the rubber piece inside the door with needle nose pliers, and then I simply plugged in the new lock and screwed it in place. I put the ring back around the rubber piece, flipped the circuit back on and washed a load of clothes. Easy as pie! Teachers can do anything. Who needs a repair man? :)

Cracked vane in washer

  • Customer: William from Juliette, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Removed (1) philips screw in toward back of vane (closest to rear of drum), pulled the vane forward to remove it, slid the new one in place, replaced the screw, and was done in less than two minutes. Piece of cake.

Washer vibration and noise

  • Customer: John from Swansboro, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Vibration/Shock: remove front cover, to remove the shocks depress the tab on the locking pins and push out. Install new shocks and pin in reverse order.

Pump: Disconect power, remove front cover, slowly remove clamp from discharge side of pump and use a sponge or rag to collect water. About one pint will remain in the upper hose. Remove the upper hose after draining. Unplug the power supply to the pump and remove two screws securing the pump to the floor of the washer. Install the new pump and conect wire and hoses.

Washing machine wouldn't drain or spin. It would run through its cycle, but only agitate.

  • Customer: Jen from Lebanon, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Use a cup to take the water out of the washer. Get at least three large towels -- you're going to have to sop up the water when you disconnect the hoses.

Take the bottom panel off (2 Phillips head screws). Drain pump is on the right side.

Remove the two screws holding the pump to the metal bottom plate. Use a small socket wrench and/or a screwdriver. I had to use a screwdriver on the right screw and a socket wrench on the left screw! Place as many towels in the cavity as you can to catch the water that's going to come out when you detach the hoses.

There is an inlet hose and an outlet hose, attached with bright green clamps. Remove those with pliers. Clean up the water that drains out. The hose in the back (inlet) has a "coin catcher" area. Clean this out.

Attach the hoses to the new pump. Screw it down. Replace the bottom panel.
All Instructions for the GLTR1670AS0
31-45 of 338