Models > GHW9150PW4 > Instructions

GHW9150PW4 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for GHW9150PW4 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GHW9150PW4
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The Washer became unbalanced and broke the latch on door

  • Customer: Glenn from Las Vegaas NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
Had to take the entire front of the washer off to replace the door latch.

Front Seal Leaked

  • Customer: Charles from Gonzales CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.

Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the bellows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.

I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.

The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.

Simple, easy repair.

Washer leaking

  • Customer: Alexander from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

Washer made excessive noise during spin

  • Customer: Dan from Collinsville OK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
This repair involved basically completely disassembling the washer. I found a reasonably usable set of step-by-step directions that got me most of the way through the process. Where there were gaps or steps missing, I was able to improvise.

The problem with my washer was that the bearings for the inner tub were shot. The only way to repair this problem is by replacing the rear outer tub. This is because the bearings and the water seal are pressed in place on the rear outer tub assembly and cannot be removed and replaced separately. It makes for a very expensive part.

Here are the steps I found elsewhere on the PartSelect forum:

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Remove the washer top.

Disconnect the touch pad/led assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the central control unit and release if from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top.

Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out to the washer.

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening.

Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer and remove the console. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the washer front panel will require that the door switch be removed and the boot be separated completely from the front panel opening.

Access to the door switch requires that the water seal boot be removed from the front of the washer.

Use a flat bladed screwdriver at the location of the retainer spring and pull the retainer forward and then off the perimeter of the boot.

Ease the edge of the boot off of the lip of the washer front.

The door switch is secured to the washer front panel with three screws. Once these screws are removed, the door switch will remain in place until it is lifted slightly and pulled back from the washer front panel.

Remove the two screws securing the bottom of the front panel to the washer, and the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the washer.

Remove th detergent dispenser assembly.

Separate the water inlet and window washer tube from the boot.

Pull the water inlet tube from the outlet connector of the detergent dispenser.

When reinstalling the water inlet tube, wet the water inlet gasket on the detergent dispenser with water only. Do Not Use any other lubricant.

Remove the screw securing the front of the detergent dispenser assemble to the top front frame.

Disconnect the vent tube from the detergent dispenser assembly.

Remove the screw securing the detergent dispenser assembly to the top left frame member.

Slide the assembly back sightly and lift the assembly out.

To remove the detergent dispenser motor assembly, disconnect the cam follower spring and lift the cam follower from the diverter locate the diverter cam clockwise to access the motor mounting screws.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the heating element.

There are three concrete weights attached to the tub assembly. All three must be removed for safe removal of the tub assembly.

Access to the weight on the top front of the tub requires removing the six screws securing the top front frame member from the washer and removing the frame member.

Access to the weight on the top back of the tub requires removing the two screws securing the upper transport brace to the washer and removing the brace.

Each weight is secured to the tub by three bolts.

Remove the three bolts and lift the weight from the tub.

Remove the flat nuts from the tub for safekeeping.

At the back of the tub assembly, remove the belt.

To remove the pulley from the basket, Place the handle of a crescent wrench through the pulley and into the steel bearing hub to keep the pulley from turning.

Use a socket wrench to remove the nut securing the pulley to the basket.

Disconnect the ground wire from the bearing hub.

Remove the screw securing the left end of the pressure tube connector tot

door lock of the microcomputer malfunctioned and began shorting out.

  • Customer: Joyce from Raymond WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the machine, then I took off the top (front loader) then I pried up the plastic clips that held the microcomputer in place onto the frame. I moved all the wiring off of wire clips and began unplugging each wire and plugging it into the new board, Matching place for place. after all wiring was transferred I put the wiring bck into the wire clips. Then I pushed the clips of the the new mc onto the frame where the other was. It slipped right into place. Then I put the top back on plugged the machine in and started washing. I am a 51 year old woman who is not mechanically inclined.

Water would not drain, motor died

  • Customer: Michael from Worcester MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the lower front cover there are three small torx type screw. The pump is the very first thing you see. Have a wet and dry Vac available you will need it. The drain pump and the drain lines contain a lot of water. Unscrew the big white drain plug at the pump and clean up the water, remove the front small mounting screw and disconnect the two hoses in the back of the pump with pliers and follow the pre-printed steps in reverse. If your machine is more than six years old you will have to use a utility knife and remove a piece of plastic on the electrical connector that is from the washer wiring, if you force the connection on it will brake, look at the connection and the plug and attempt to plug it in before you install the pump. It is easy just be-aware of the connector.

Movers wouldn't accept washer w/o shipping bolts

  • Customer: Rob from Yakyma WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the decription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".

Leak at bottom of door

  • Customer: Russell from Wichita KS
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed bellow clamp (used screwdriver to pry clamp open). Removed Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp with socket set. Removed Bellow. I had purchased new clamps as I didn't know condition of the old clamps. The Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp was in good condition, appeared to have an anodized finish - was not corroded and the tightening screw pointed forward where as the new clamp appeared to be galvanized and the tightening screw paralled the clamp. I assumed the new orientation of the tightening screw was to make it easier to tighten with a screwdriver, but space is limited and I had good success removing the old clamp with a socket set so I elected to reuse the old clamp. Plus, I liked the finish of the old clamp better - it had zero corrosion on it after several years, almost a decade, of use.
Reinstalling the bellow was the hardest part of the repair - it is just tedious and patience is required - I took a couple of breaks seating the Bellow to the outer tub. There was a tab on the Bellow which went to the top to insure the Bellow was properly aligned. After I seated the bead of the Bellow all the way around, I slipped the Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp over the Bellow and tightened it down - continually checking the seating of the Bellow. I then put the Bellow over the water inlet tube and seated the outer portion of the Bellow. I needed additional hands to help hold the outer clamp in place - my wife helped - and I used pliers and plastic pry wedges from a tire patch repair kit to pull it open and slip it over the Bellow - I didn't want to use screwdrives as I was afraid I would damage the Bellow.

The rear bearing went bad on a front-load washer (Duet)

  • Customer: Patrick from Snellville GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First I took the top, front, and back off of the washer. There were about a gazillion wires and tubes so I went slow and took pictures. I had to get the old tub out so that I could replace its back half. The new outer tub contained the replacement bearing. Taking the tub out took about two hours because I went slow so that I could document the process. Once the tub was out, I split the tub in half and found a real mess of a bearing. I couldn't get the old bearing race off of the shaft, so I went to the store to get some sand paper. With sand paper I was able to smooth the shaft down enough to get the old race off. The inner tub and the outer rear tub went together pretty easy with a couple swats with a hammer. Putting the clips back on was a trick. My oldest son figured it out. This was actually a family event. I am the father of ten children so you can imagine how important a washing machine is. After another couple of hours, we had all of the wires attached and the hoses hooked up. There is a metal band that holds the plastic shroud in the front to the outer tub. It took my daughter-in-laws long piano fingers to get that put on right. When we had it working finally, the bottom drain hose was leaking. The little clamp that came with the machine wasn't doing its job. Then the metal band came back off. Well, I went back to the store and bought a 10 inch metal band clamp for the bottom hose. That did the trick. I tightened the big band real tight and everything is wonderful. My wife is happy again! No more trips to wash clothes! I saved some money and some time and it wasn't that bad.

Water was slowly leaking into the washer drum

  • Customer: robert from Covina CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
lickity split

Torn bellow. Water leaking

  • Customer: krista from scotts valley CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I found a you tube video with step by step instructions. Very easy to follow. Repair would have been quicker had my kids not been at home. I had to have my boyfriend help me put on the outer bellow spring clamp, as I was not strong enough. Washer works great.

Damage to the plastic tub.

  • Customer: Kurt from Mountlake Terrace WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 47 people found this instruction helpful
The clips that hold the tub halves together were difficult to reinstall. I realized once I got it apart that the damage was probably a secondary condition. The primary problem was that the drum was off center due to a failing bearing. It is only sold with the rear tub assembly. $475.Live and learn. My new LG washer is pretty slick though.

Plastic Knob Cracked off machine

  • Customer: Susan from Glen Ellyn IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
It was super easy...as the knob (Part No. 18 on our Whirlpool Duet Dryer) broke off cleanly leaving the metal pin exposed....(we had been turning it with pilers in the interim) so I just popped the new knob on and we were good to go! It was really easy to do and easy to locate the necessary part on your site. I won't hesitate to use your company and website again. Thank you for making all the parts available and saving us a service call!

Noisey when drum turned

  • Customer: James from North Pole AK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
To verify it was the motor making the noise not the drum bearing I removed the belt and rotated both by hand to see which one made naoise - then I ordered the motor.
To install the motor remove rear panel, slip belt off, remove 1 bolt holding motor in, carefully slide motor towards you until pivits disengage. Wires are ling enough to set motor on bottom of washer and rotate for easier access to connector. Install motor in reverse sequence.

error F 11. Mashine would not run

  • Customer: Christina from Englewood FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws on front control panel. found info sheet. read that this part was correct. replaced the motor control unit tho saw no damage on old unit and it works fine now.
All Instructions for the GHW9150PW4
16-30 of 270