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Squeaks; rusty spots on clothes
1. Released the front latches under the dryer top and flipped it up. 2. Removed two screws holding the dryer front in place and flipped it down. 3. Tore off old drum glide and lower seal. 4. removed most of the remaining fuzz with sandpaper. 5. Glued the new seals in place. 6. Put everything back together.
All in all, about 30 minutes of effort. I managed to come away with only minor cuts and scrapes.
Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.
thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!
Removed the front, door and all. Replaced both upper and lower seals and allowed glue to dry for 24 hours. Removed 3 screws attaching drum to pivot in rear. While drum was out, relubricated pivot seat and ball. Installed new drum which has been re-designed, has strip around entire lip now. Seals are different, so both have to be replaced with ones in kit, supplied tube of glue is not enough to do the job, so used gator glue. Had trouble installing the 3 screws that attach it to the pivot. Finally re-assembled entire front panel and replaced the door. Started the dryer and it worked as new.
Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.
Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness. You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum. Remove the drive belt Remove the drum. You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back. Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)
Re install everything back again. And you are done
Motor replacement requires removing/releasing the top and front of the dryer, then removing the drum through the front of the dryer. The top is hinged at the rear and the front can be pried up. The front is held by two sheet metal screws that are accessible once the top is lifted up. Three screws hold the drum to the bearing at the rear of the drum. A small access door on the rear panel allows removal of the idler arm and its spring. You will need a socket drive with a short extension to remove the fan assembly from the motor at the front of the dryer, and it has a LEFT-HAND thread. The most difficult part of the replacement, once you figure out how to access everything, is getting the drum re-attached to the bearing at the rear of the drum. It can be hard to align the three screws, and once you have that done they need to be carefully tightened a few times after rotating the drum a few cycles, to get all the play out. Once the motor was replaced the dryer works like new.
I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.
I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.
The repair went very smoothly. I'm a woman in my mid 20's and was prepared to buy a new dryer but I saw the part online for a very reasonable price and the video instructions were extremely helpful. I was able to fix the dryer quickly and cost effectively AND the part arrived in only 2 days! It all worked out very well.
Auto Dry would not cut off and took long time to dry.
1. I disconnected power cord 2. I used putty knife to loosen top by pressing into the front spring clips holding it down and lifted the front of the lid up against the back hinges and leaned it back against a wall at the back of the machine. 3. Then I unscrewed the two screws at the top of the inside of the front panel edges and unclipped the wires from the door switch and then crimped the metal clips holding the front panel to the main body sides and then leaned the top of the front panel toward the front and lifted it out and put it aside. 4. I then went to the back of the machine and undid the two screws holding the motor area access panel and took it off and put it aside. I then released the drum belt tensioner and moved the belt away from the motor pulley. 5. Then I removed the drum by lifting up on it so that the ball axle could be pulled outward and then proceeded to take the belt off and work the drum out of the front panel opening and put it aside. 6. Once the drum was removed one could see the heating coil assembly attached to the inside back of the dryer. One needs to take off the two wires attached to the coil spade connectors that are located at the ceramic insulator. I decided to take out the whole assembly by undoing the four screws at the outside back of the dryer. 7. Once the assembly is out of the dryer, then it becomes necessary to remove the spade terminals from the ceramic insulator, One must unbend the metal flanges that have been bent at the base of the spade coneetors at the surface of the insulator and then pull out the spade connectors. Once this is done, then one can unconnect the coil from the ceramic insulators holding it to the assembly. Once the coil is disconnected one can put in the new coil into the ceramic insulators, insert the spade connedtors into the insulator, bend the flanges to retain it and then reverse the disassembly sequence for the assembly to complete the job. Outcome,(I saved the old coil in case I need it in the future.) Outcome
After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy. I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.
Dryer would not even turn on. Removed 2 screws holding thermal limiter switch and removed t
Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan
The dyer functioned fine, but was not producing any heat.
The repair was a bit more simple that what I had read here earlier, to see if I could handle it or I would have to call someone. The biggest relief was that I didn't have to remove any of the connectors from the control panel. Only 4 total connectors were removed at the Heating Element itself. Here's the steps I performed: 1) Pop the top off by prying the lid to release the 2 front clips and lift the top all the way up (like the hood of a car). Rest this against a door or wall. 2) Remove the rear access panel (2 phillips screws) on the bottom left of the unit. Remove the tension from the dryer belt and take it off the pully. 3) Go back to the front and remove (4 allen heads) from the back of the dryer drum. The drum should now have some play. 4) remove a plastic retainer that stops the drum from being lifted out. Now you should be able to lift out the drum. There is a ball & socket fitting that needs to come apart. This can be done by sharply lifting straight up. This gives you access to the heating element and you should be able to see where the coil has burned, thus opening the circuit. 5) remove (4 phillips screws) from the back panel of the dryer. Remove two pairs of connectors that attach to the heating element. Now it's out and you can begin the swap of the new element and reverse this process to put it back together. If I had to do this again, it would take less approx 30 minutes.
The dryer was over-heating, the vents had been cleaned to it wasn't the vent, but something wrong with the dryer. The Thermal Limiter was a cheap try to see if it would fix the problem.
The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.
first i removed the top -second I removed the two screws hold the front on - thrid I unpluged the wiring to remove the front - fourth I removed old part and cleaned off old glue -fifth I applied new glue and new part - sixth I reasembled - worked good as new