FA4141 Amana Washer - Instructions

Pulled the washer away from wall and tipped forward, leaning against a chair. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. Removed 1 screw. Pulled the plate off the back of the washer. Removed two screws holding the old valve onto that plate. Took 4 wires off the original valve one at a time and placed the wires one at a time on the new valve, so I didnt have to write down or remember which wire went where. Slid one hose clamp up, pushed the hose off the old valve and placed it on the new valve. Threw the two screws back on the valve and fastened it to the plate. Put the plate back on the back side of the washer with one screw. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new water valve and screwed on the hot and cold water hoses.

Removed two screws , two more on the valve, loosened the hose clamp. Reassembled the same way

Very easy as the water inlet valve is located on the back of the washer and it was a simple matter of shutting off the water, undoing water hoses, undoing water inlet valve which didn't even need to remove the back side of the washer and connecting the new part, water hoses and turning water back on. The hardest part was tipping the washer, my sits on top of the cold air return, and balancing on a milk crate. Very pleased with being able to do my own repair.

With the help of my 3 year old grandson, we removed the inlet hoses and inlet panel. The water inlet valve replacement was a perfect fit. All connections conformed to the original part. I had reviewed a video at the time of order, so was familiar with the process by the time the part arrived. The website was very helpful in determination of what was needed to fix the washer problem. Shipping was fast and tracking the package provided my schedule. I will utilize this site in the future.

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!

As another person commented, there is a small 'door' on the rear where the water inlet is located. Don't know if this was meant for easy access to change this part or not but I didn't use it. I found it much easier to just remove the front panel (2 lower corner screws), loosen the top (2 corner screws) and tilt it up and out of the way. From there it was easy to disconnect the hoses and four electrical plugs (easy to remember the order). The unit is held in place by one screw which is located between the water inlets.

just like the vidio, only a had to remove the back panel to replace the valve. but we ., or should say my mother has a working wacher now,thank you for your help,

Unplugged AC cord. Removed hot and cold supply hoses. Removed front cover (2 Phillips screws near bottom). Raised lid, and removed fastening screw for injector tube. Removed retaining screws for inlet valve mounting plate. Positioned mounting plate partially inside rear of machine and removed (4) wires for solenoid connections. Re-positioned mounting plate slightly outside machine and removed valve mounting screws and old valve. Attached new valve (no modification to valve needed for my machine), and worked backwards through the steps listed above.

very simple to repair, three screws and disconnecting water supply pulling four wires then reverse steps and done, time spent less than 15 minutes.

My husband figured out what the problem was and I looked for the part. It was easy to find on your web-site, and the picture was spot on! I ordered it and had the part in 2 days. The repair took 15 minutes or less, and my washer is as good as new. Thank you PartSelect for being there when we needed. I will recommend this to everyone.

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

First I looked it up on the computer and clicked on Part Select's page and it came up with the part needed and then I watched the video on installing the part. It was easy to follow their instructions and the repair was made. I was so pleased with everything I ran across a man in the hardware store this morning and he was having cloths dryer trouble that I told him to just click on your site and the rest would be easy. He said he would do that. In fact I took the Wife out to dinner on just part of what money you saved me. Thanks, Harold

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam