F44P21ATD0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.

Great resource and service, thank you.

I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)

I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.

removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!

a handyman made the repair. It went fine.

Our old gasket was shot to hell, so we figured we'd replace it to see if that would solve the problem. We followed the instructions of another customer. We realized it was better if we removed the entire door in order to attach the gasket. That took a little doing, but it was totally the way to go. Miracle of Miracles, the leaking has stopped, the food is super cold, and I couldn't be happier.

Just like the very helpful video. Took the drawer out. Lifted the glass cover out. Took 2 screws out and extracted broken rail. Placed the new rail in with 2 screws. Voila! Easy-peasy.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Heard the snap of a short circuit followed by a burning smell around the refrigerator. Pulled it out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a nut driver. Plugged it back in and when the compressor kicked on I saw sparks and some smoke at the relay. Unplugged and ordered new relay and the associated run capacitor in case it was also bad.
Removed the holding clip and the relay with capacitor easily came out with two wires attached. Removing the wires was done by prying with needle nose pliers with some difficulty.
Inserting the wires into the new relay was also difficult. If the position isn't just right it does not snap in. Once it is positioned correctly it makes a positive connection with not much effort.
Reassembled the capacitor, plugged unit into compressor, added retaining clip and plugged in refrigerator.
Compressor started up correctly. Note that as the refrigerator cools the compressor will shut off for long periods of time. This is normal.

My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.

I followed the directions, which were very simple and easy to follow. The whole process was easy and fast. Couldn't be happier.

Followed someone before me instructions. very simple and easy