ESH22XGPCCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First determined my modle did not require any of the wire mods descibed on the instructions. Removed power and three cover plate screws. Removed board connectors. Calapsed board anchors and removed board. Removed existing ground wire from board. Installed ground wire on new board and installed board on four mounts. installed connectors and replaced cover and screws. I did wear playtex gloves so as not to cause a static short and wipe out the new board. Took off the bottom panel and cleaned condensor fan cage while I had the fridge out. Secured, plugged in fridge, works real fine, lasts a long time.

It was a tough job to replace the drawer slide rails at the bottom of the refrgerator on both the left and right sides. I had to get on the floor on my knees and stomach to get my head inside trying to see the work to be done. First the screws from the broken drawer slide rails had to be removed. The screws in the front part of the rails were a little easier than those in the middle. (Fortunately, there were none in the back.) The screws are hidden in cylindrical grooves and one can't get its head in far enough to see. The middle ones are extremely difficult when on your kneees and stomach. Using a trouble light inside helped a little. The screws in the middle were really tough especially inserting and starting the turning, both in loosening and tightening. Fortunately, I had long nose snips that allowed me to brarely grab the end of the Philips screws and gently insert them in the grooves. Then with luck in aligning the sacrews. I was able to start the tightening but had to use my left hand on the right side as there was no room for my right hand. The total job took a few hours of struggle but I finally finished the job and it was perfect. If I ever have to do it again, I'll know the procedure better. The completion of this task gave me great satisfaction. I think my description here is probably more than neeeded.

removed back panel with the nut driver and screw driver. lower half of coils were a block of ice... took about 1 hour of using a hair dryer to get rid of ice/water. installed new dual element heater, that was an upgrade from my single element. wire was long enough to re-route down the other side so it was a simple repair, no wire nuts or re-engineering needed ! without thaw time, took about 15 minutes total. cools to 0' in freezer and 33 in fridge now !!! cool !

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Too easy not to try yourself. These instructions are accurate - add only to splice in the extra wiring if your left side wire cannot mate with the right side of the dual heater. Instructions included with the repair parts. Parts arrived quickly and first quality.

Undcrewed broken parts (2 screws each) and replaced with new parts and screwed them back in place,

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

Hardest part was removing the escutcheon around the ice maker on the door. Used a putty knife to find first clip pullout than the rest was easy. Disconnecting plugs from circuit board not as easy as looks, broke one locking clip have to be more careful when lifting the small clips. Once done than removed plastic casing and and easily removed the flapper and replaced with new one. Since I didn't know what I would encounter I ordered a spring and the arm that holds the flapper. I pre- assembled the parts and had it ready to install once I removed the defective part. Whole job under ten minutes...GE service starts at $99.95 just to come and look at it, than parts and labor after that I saved at least $100 dollars. Very easy fix.

Performed repair per the PartSelect on-linevideo. Some posters had said the solenoid could be rusted, so I had ordered one. Turned out to be fine, and I have returned it. I much appreciated the hint from another poster, that it was no longer necessary to pry the escutcheon off the door, and merely pressing inside the outer 2 holes on the bottom of the control panel would suffice. I encountered no complications. Frist problem is gone.

Take off panel in freezer ,cut wires in old part ,put new part on connecting with wire nuts,placfing silicone in nuts,snapped on new part ,replaced panel

With my hands and tools. It was real easy. Now just waiting to see it that was the problem.