EGR3001 General Electric Range - Instructions

First of all disconnect the power cord and then remove the top section of the oven which consisted of 2 small allen screws located in the front bottom corners [ left and right ] on the frontside. On the backside there was 2 phillip screws on top corners [ left and right ]. Also there was 2 bolthead screws that I use my small socket set or you can use a small ajustable wrench. Once all these were removed it rolled forward right off. The control board was located in the center of the panel. Made sure the part matched up and it did, removed 4 small corner phillip screws and 4 or 5 removable plug in wire connectors which were easily identified. Put everything back together, plug power cord back in and the electronic display came on. Everything worked on the oven. done deal.

I followed the instructions I came across on this website (i.e., First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires). Removing the screws was difficult until I went to reinstall the igniter and relized you can pull the burner out all the way and quickly install the screws.

I pulled the range out from the wall so that I could unplug the power card. (I eventually discovered that I didn't need to pull it out from the wall--there is a separate plug under the stove, behind the bottom drawer, that I could have simply unplugged instead.)

I removed the bottom drawer of the range then removed the racks and bottom tray from the oven. I then removed the baffle above the oven burner by removing two screws. At this point I could see the igniter. I removed the two screws that attach the igniter mounting bracket to the back of the oven. I removed one screw that attaches the igniter to the mounting bracket. At this point I pulled the igniter out several inches and cut the wires where they were attached with ceramic wire nuts.

I stripped about 1/2 inch insulation from the wires coming through the back of the oven and used the new ceramic wire nuts to attach the new igniter. I then reversed the above steps to complete the repair. I had read someone else's repair report and took their advice to lift out the burner pipe to get more working room during disassembly and reassembly.

The unnecessary steps that I took were: (1) Pulling the stove from the wall. (I could have unplugged it from another plug at the bottom of the stove.) (2) I took the cover off the electronics box-- two screws--underneath the stove because I thought I needed to get access to the wires, but that was not necessary.

The parts list claims that the oven igniter is very fragile. I disassembled the old one (and I mean I really took it apart!) and I found that it was quite rugged mechanically. The failure appeared to have been an internal connection from the wires to the heating element. I don't think it is very fragile to handle.

1. removed old oven glow igniter using nut driver socket--it wasn't that tight so I didn't have to use the actual driver. The igniter was now loose hanging from its 2 wires.
2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then pull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.
3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires

After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

Unplug the electrical power first. Remove the drawer from the bottom of the stove. Then you can unplug the two wires that go to the ignitor. Inside the stove, remove the bottom cover plate by removing two screws at the back. You may need to loosen them with a flat screwdriver first. The ignitor has two screws that hold it to the long tubular part where the gas burns. There are two screws at the back which hold the tubular part (and one screw at the front). I removed the tubular part by removing these three screws. Then you can remove the ignitor, compare it to the new one to make sure it's the right part. Cut off the wires from the old part so you can use the same connectors. Splice these wires onto the new part, and insulate them with tape. Replace the ignitor onto the "tubular part" and attach it back into the oven. Plug the wires in, replace the bottom cover and drawer, plug the range back in and test it out. Mine worked great on the first try. The hard part is reaching to the back of the oven to remove (and re-install) the two screws that hold the "tubular part".

It took considerable time to remove the door and take it completely apart so the gasket could be inserted, and time again to reassemble properly. The gasket (though the no. was confirmed before ordering) was 3" too short so I had to cut some off the old gasket to make do (not entirely effectively).

A G.E. tech came out and quoted $500 to replace the circuit board. I unbolted the board myself and used the camera in my phone to take a picture of the wiring. Then I came to PartSelect.com and using their diagrams found the replacement board for $75. It came in the mail a few days later. I used to picture in my phone to reconnect all the wires, bolted everything back up and baked some cookies. Thanks PartSelect for making my repair job simple and inexpensive.

replaced all four top burner spark electrodes. the same two still didnt work. I had also purchased spark module and that did fix the problem. Lifting the cook top was difficult. I was afraid of breaking the sealed burners. Note there are directions in envelope on the back side of the stove. /use pliers to remove connectors from module. >Getting the top open was the hardest and most time consuming.

Really self explanatory. Removed the old drip pans and put in the new. No tools required. However, I would like to say I received the parts the day after I ordered them. EXTREMELY FAST SHIPPING!!

Very simple repair. I bought the Range without the Burners and Burner Caps. So all I had to do was to purchase the Burners and the Burner Caps and drop them in. Wish everything in life would be that simple.

1. Pull the oven out to access the connector in the back of the oven near the bottom center to disconnect the connector to the ignitor. Then push the connector and wire through the hole in the back of the oven.
2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.
3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.
4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.
5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.
6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.

openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over

removed two screws with screw driver,and replaced panel