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PartSelect Number PS243425
Be very careful when handling this igniter as it is very fragile.This igniter has a range of 2.5 to 3.0 amps. Note: This will not replace the flat style igniters. Also known as bake and broil igniter.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Unplug the oven.Open the oven door.Remove the racks.Remove the two screws that hold the oven floor; they are located toward the back.Remove the oven floor pan.Remove the screw holding the heat shield/dispenser.Remove the heat shield/dispenser.Untwist the ceramic wire caps on the two igniter wires.Remove the two screws holding the igniter.Remove the igniter.Replace the igniter working all the steps backwards.It’s super simple.
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Your website help me troubleshoot the problem and locate the part. Part was delivered the next day. Following the instructions that others on your website had provided, the repair was quick and SUCCESSFUL. Gas will not flow if the igniter is bad. Gas will only flow if the igniter heats up the internal bimetal strip which in turn, allows gas to flow through the safety valveFirst, unplug the power sourse. For this repair it is not necessary to shut off the gas, but do so if it makes you more comfortable. Remove the oven door...it lifts right off. Next, remove the screws and lift out the bottom panel in the oven box. This will expose the igniter. Next, remove the lower drawer. Two 1/4-28 screws retain the igniter...remove these. With the drawer removed, go underneath and locate the 2 wires to the igniter. One has a green connector, and the other has a red connector. Disconnect these 2 wires and carefully remove the igniter and wires. Cut the wires from the igniter on the igniter end. You will need to reuse the plug end of each wire, so don't cut them too short. Splice these two wires to the new igniter with the wire splice caps provided. Feed the wires back down throught the opening at the back of the oven and carefully move the igniter into place. Install the two 1/4-28 retaining screws. Go back underneath the oven through the drawer opening and plug in the 2 wires. You should be good to go. Reassemble the oven and have mama bake a cake..
Before starting it's a good idea to disconnect the electricity and turn the gas valve off behind the stove. Next, uncrew the two finger-screws at the back of the oven that hold the porcelain & steel drip plate in. It comes out if you push it towards the back of the oven and lift it out. This reveals the burner and the cylindrical igniter attached to the side of the burner. While I was there I unscrewed the one screw at the front end of the burner (nearest me).After attempting the repair from inside the oven, I realized it was far easier to pull out the bottom drawer and work from under the oven instead. Using only one size mini-socket for all screws it was easy. I undid the two screws that hold the main burner to the back of the oven. This allowed me to pull the burner up inside the oven so I could access the screws that held the igniter to the side of the burner. A flashlight helps when working under the oven.Under the oven again I then pulled the two wires off their respective connectors. Then inside the oven unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter to the burner. The old part came off very easily. However, the new part didn't have connectors attached, so I had to remember which wire went where and cut the old connectors off and splice them to the new. Be sure to leave yourself as much of the old wire as possible attached to the connector. Otherswise you might find the "new" wires too short to reach the connectors.I reconnected the igniter to the main burner with the two screws. Then fed the burner and wires back into place. I then lightly screwed the single front screw on the burner (inside the oven) to help position the burner, then went underneath to install the other two screws. Under the oven I made sure the wires fit onto their connectors then tightened the two screws to hold the burner to the back wall. Once the burner was properly in place I tightened the two screws and the single one inside the oven. I then plugged the oven back in and turned on the gas flow. I turned the oven dial and watched the new igniter glow wonderfully. Finally I replaced the porcelain floor cover inside the oven. These finger screws can be a bit tricky because they go into a threaded clip that might have moved while you worked. The whole task took less than 30 minutes - and I had never done this before.
The repair was fairly straight forward.Step 1: Remove the storage drawer from below the oven and disconnect A/C power.Step 2: Using nutdriver, remove the 2 machine screws in the front and 2 on the sides that hold the silver cover plate under the oven.Step 3: Disconnect the 2 wires going to the igniter and remove the 2 bolts holding the igniter to the burner assembly.Step 4: After removing the defective igniter, cut the connectors off the old igniter.Step 5: Strip the wire on the connectors back the appropriate length and connect them to the new igniter with the supplied ceramic wire nuts.Step 6: Reinstall new igniter into the buner assembly and reconnect wires.Step 7: Before reinstalling the cover plate, plug A/C power back in and test that the igniter glows orange and the main gas valve opens.Step 8: Assuming your test light worked, reinstall cover plate using 4 screws and put the storage drawer back in place.
The 2 bolts that attach to the burner were at a difficult angle to get at, other than that it was relatively easy.
I had to pull the strorage drawer under the stove out to get at the electric connection for the ignitor. Then I removed the plate that coveres the burner and ignitor, and used a nut driver to remove the ignitor screws. I had to cut off the quick wire connectors from the old ignitor because the new one is just bare wires. FYI this is how the ignitor comes from every place I looked at, not just part select.com. After using the provided wire nuts to connect the new ignitor wires to the old ignitor wires that still had the quick connectors attached I screwed the ignitor back on. Put the covers on and done. It probably took about 30 minutes and saved me a bunch of money instead of having to call someone to repair something this easy.
I pulled out the bottom drawer, took out the interior bottom panel, and disconnected the ignitor. This repair is pretty straight forward. The only note I would make is that the ignitor did not have plugs on the end of the wires you have to splice the new ignitor in. If there are plugs available to purchase for your model, you may want to pick them up instead of splicing.
I pulled the range out from the wall so that I could unplug the power card. (I eventually discovered that I didn't need to pull it out from the wall--there is a separate plug under the stove, behind the bottom drawer, that I could have simply unplugged instead.)I removed the bottom drawer of the range then removed the racks and bottom tray from the oven. I then removed the baffle above the oven burner by removing two screws. At this point I could see the igniter. I removed the two screws that attach the igniter mounting bracket to the back of the oven. I removed one screw that attaches the igniter to the mounting bracket. At this point I pulled the igniter out several inches and cut the wires where they were attached with ceramic wire nuts.I stripped about 1/2 inch insulation from the wires coming through the back of the oven and used the new ceramic wire nuts to attach the new igniter. I then reversed the above steps to complete the repair. I had read someone else's repair report and took their advice to lift out the burner pipe to get more working room during disassembly and reassembly. The unnecessary steps that I took were: (1) Pulling the stove from the wall. (I could have unplugged it from another plug at the bottom of the stove.) (2) I took the cover off the electronics box-- two screws--underneath the stove because I thought I needed to get access to the wires, but that was not necessary.The parts list claims that the oven igniter is very fragile. I disassembled the old one (and I mean I really took it apart!) and I found that it was quite rugged mechanically. The failure appeared to have been an internal connection from the wires to the heating element. I don't think it is very fragile to handle.
I followed the instructions I came across on this website (i.e., First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires). Removing the screws was difficult until I went to reinstall the igniter and relized you can pull the burner out all the way and quickly install the screws.
Never having tried to repair an oven before, I was a little nervous about attempting this myself. First I had to determine why the oven burners would not light, and by observing the way the broiler burner system worked, I could quickly tell that the problem was the igniter. After reading the repair stories here, I convinced myself that I too could fix this without calling a repair tech, and I ordered the part I needed.A couple of days later the part arrived and I began the repair. First I emptied the oven of the racks and removed the door. (I learned how to do that here. I would never have guessed that all you need to do is lift it up.) Next I removed the bottom drawer and then the oven floor. That panel is held in place by two machine screws at the back and is inserted in a lip across the front. (All the screws to be removed in this whole job were 1/4-inch hex head.)Now I had access to the igniter in the oven and to its wiring below. The igniter is attached to the oven burner with two screws. It is almost impossible to get to those screws with the burner mounted, so next I dismounted it. It is attached by a single screw at the front and by two screws underneath and attached to the back wall. With those screws removed, the whole assembly comes free and is only connected to the oven by the two wires from the igniter. Leave those attached.I removed the two screws attaching the old igniter to the burner and replaced the igniter with the new one. The new igniter must be spliced into the wires from the old igniter. I cut one wire close to the body of the old igniter, stripped the end and used the supplied wire nut to attach the same wire from the new igniter to it. Then I did the same for the other wire. Doing it one at a time like that helps make sure the wiring doesn't get crossed since there is no visual difference between the two wires.With the new igniter now in place, I reinstalled the burner assembly into the oven, attaching the two screws in the back and the one in front, and making sure all the excess wire from the igniter was out of the oven space itself to avoid problems from heat. Then I tested the system by turning on the oven. In a couple of seconds the igniter glowed like it should and the burner lit. Yay!Then it was just put everything back together by putting the floor in (slide front under lip, attach screws in back), replacing the drawer and then the door and finally the racks. It actually takes longer to describe what I did than it did to do it. Elapsed time for a complete novice was about 15 minutes.
Unplug the electrical power first. Remove the drawer from the bottom of the stove. Then you can unplug the two wires that go to the ignitor. Inside the stove, remove the bottom cover plate by removing two screws at the back. You may need to loosen them with a flat screwdriver first. The ignitor has two screws that hold it to the long tubular part where the gas burns. There are two screws at the back which hold the tubular part (and one screw at the front). I removed the tubular part by removing these three screws. Then you can remove the ignitor, compare it to the new one to make sure it's the right part. Cut off the wires from the old part so you can use the same connectors. Splice these wires onto the new part, and insulate them with tape. Replace the ignitor onto the "tubular part" and attach it back into the oven. Plug the wires in, replace the bottom cover and drawer, plug the range back in and test it out. Mine worked great on the first try. The hard part is reaching to the back of the oven to remove (and re-install) the two screws that hold the "tubular part".
Followed previous posts, just took out the metal pan (2) 1/4" head screws. Removed the ignitor bracket (2) 1/4" head screws. Disconnected the existing ceramic wirenuts. Removed the ignitor from the bracket......this was the hardest part as the self threading screw stripped out in the sheet metal. Took some time to remove that screw and re-tap the hole to #10-32. Once that was done used a #10-32 x 1/2" machine screw with lock washer. All went back together fine from there. I put the grates in backwards and the wife had to turn them around after teasing me about it......maybe I should do more baking.......
removed the gas burner which allowed easy access to undo the old igniter.opened the wire hatch in the back of the oven cavity, and also took off the cover (two screws) on the back panel to allow access to the igniter connector.I cut the wires to the old igniter, leaving lots of wire, stripped the wire, and then hooked up the new igniter using the supplied ceramic / hi-temp twist on connectors. then just closed up everything in reverse.helps to take off oven door, and you need access to the back side of the oven.
0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven.1) removed oven door (no tools required)2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out)3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer)4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter.6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job.7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine.8) Reverse steps above to install.The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.
First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.
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