EDW3000G01WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I took the dishwasher out from under the sink and looked at the pump and motor, saw that the cooling fan that this old style motor used was broke. Ordered this kit and installed it. I didn't even look at the directions that simple of a swap. Thank God!

removed rack and installed new ones easily. Appreciated the fast service that I received when ordering the new parts!

(1) Remove end caps of the support arms that hold the upper rack in place (use pliers if needed). (2) Pull rack completely out of dishwasher. (3) If some of the old rollers have broken off in the support arms, remove them by sliding them forward. (4) Remove rollers (or broken-off stubs) from the sides of the rack (use pliers if needed). (5) Push new rollers onto the sides of the rack (hand pressure should be sufficient). (6) Insert rack back into the support arms by sliding the new rollers into the support arms. (7) Replace end caps; make sure they are secure.

I was having a difficult time locating a new silverware basket. Found your website, chatted with a representative. Gave a brief description and your representative found it right away. It was inexpensive and was shipped and received in 3 days! Awesome service from start to finish. Thank you.

Snapped new one on in about 30 seconds

Put them on by hand - pice of cake!!

A simple do-it yourself project. All I had to do was unsnap the old broken roller and snap the new one in place. The hardest part was getting the plastic cap off the arm that the roller glides in, and even that was not difficult at all.

Easy repair. Just remove old and insert new.

Pulled out the rubber baffles. They had detiorated and lost their protective ribs which keep the water inside the dishwasher. No tools were needed, I just cleaned the area where they were located.

I had some extra problems with my water supply line since this is an old house, but I won't dwell on that. If you have an older model like mine (probably 80's) the only trick is with the drain solenoid. The kit uses a newer style solenoid that is a little different. Without getting too technical here, let me just say that if the old solenoid has a little metal lever that is actuated when the plunger goes down do not discard it. From what I have read, the dishwasher will shut down with an error code if you don't use this part and you will also have 2 wires that are just hanging there with nothing to plug in to. You will need to use an included metal plate and screws to adapt that part to the new assembly. It takes a little mechanical aptitude, but after you figure it out it works perfectly. I did not see this mentioned in the instructions but the necessary parts were included. Replacing the pump and motor was fairly simple, and all the needed parts were included in the kit. I did remove the unit from under the counter and lay it on it's back for easy access to the pump and motor. It helps to watch some You-tube videos if you are unsure about how to do this, but make sure they are working on the brand you have. All dishwashers are NOT the same.

Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.

Placed baffles manually as instructed in the video. Easy repair with excellent on-line support and instructions.

i first order the corner baffles and put them in. no change at all, still leaked terribly. the old baffles looked pretty good so i kept them. i then ordered the door gasket and the insert. i removed the old one, put in the new, and still no change. i thought perhaps the machine hadn't been used at all because it was like brand new inside, and previously owned by 'a little old lady'. i decided to load it up and run it on a regular wash, and have done that three times now. it drips a very small amount on the left corner but i'm quite happy that it decreased so much. I think perhaps the seal might be setting with the heat of the cycle because each time a load goes through it get less and less drips from that corner. The first order was sent by ups and they couldn't find where i lived so i actually had to go pick them up, but the second order was sent fedex and they had no problem finding my home, and i was very pleased with how fast my order came.

Pull rack out put wheel on put rack back

I firts turned off power to the diswasher through the circuit breaker panel. I removed the black tray at the bottom front of the dishwasher, removed the two screws attaching the water inlet valve, detached inlet and outlet water hoses as well as the eletric connector. I removed fitting from the old valve and installed in the new valve using some teflon tape. Installation is the reverse of the removal.