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Upper rack kept dropping from the wheels when we pulled it out
We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.
The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.
"Clean" light inoperative; too much water in bottom; dry cycle malfunction (inside wet, dishes not dry).
REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.
Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.
Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.
Read directions. They were poorly drawn. Set them aside. Opened up unit on December 26th. I made careful observation of the wiring, two hoses, one metal bracket, the hose two clamps, and then proceeded. Instructions said 1 to 2 hours, to complete. Ha Ha, perhaps if you've done it before. It was actually really closer to four hours. When done, it worked perfectly. The best part, my wife said: "This was the best Christmas present ever!" That made my day! Dishes are clean again, just like new! Thank you: www.PartsSelect.com.
Our older GE dishwasher was leaking water on the floor while running. After inspecting it while running I was able to determine that the water was coming from the seal around the motors shaft where it entered the pump. I then looked up the washers model number and ordered the impeller shaft seal kit. To my suprise the kit arrived the very next day! After disconnecting the power and water supplies from the dishwasher , I then removed it from the cabinet base and turned it over to gain easy access to the bottom. Using nothing more than a nut driver, adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers I was able to loosen the two compression clamps and two hose clamps that hold the pump to the bottom of the washers tub. I then removed the entire pump and took it to my work bench for the rest of the repair. Removing the plastic impeller strainer was the toughest part.. Lacking the proper spanner wrench, I had no tool that would lock onto the raised tabs to turn it loose with. I was able to position the tabs in the jaws of my workbench vise and giving the entire pump a little twist, It broke free and I was then able to unscrew the rest of the way it by hand.. The old dried up detergent made for a good adhesive, and after removal I cleaned the area completely so the new strainer would thread in easy. I installed the new parts in the kit as per the supplied instructions and re-installed the pump housing back on the dishwasher and put it all back in place. After running it several times not a drip was to be seen, and I was very pleased with the whole process. With the shipping it cost me just $25.00, and it saved me a expensive service call or maybe even the cost of buying a new machine. I would say that overall it was a easy repair but lacking the right tools, you may have some trouble removing the pumps plastic strainer screen as I did. I would highly recommend PartsSelect to anyone, and the entire experience was a good one for me.
