DW860W Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

My first diagnosis was that the leak was originating from a worn door seal. The door seal was replaced, but did not correct the problem. The spray bars were inspected for cracks or splits and were found to be sound. I removed the interior cover of the door and traced the water leak back to the dispenser door latch seal. The latch grommet was replaced and the problem was corrected. In order to replace the grommet, the interior door cover screws were removed using a star bit screw driver. Once the door cover was separated from the door, the small motor that operates the door latch mechanism needs to be unclipped from the door cover (leave the wiring harness connected). Use a nut driver with a 1/4" socket to remove the latch mechanism (2 screws). Slide the old rubber grommet over the latch, and install the new rubber grommet. Reassemble the latch mechanism, reversing the previous steps. Done.

First, removed end cap in steel sliding upper rail, second, removed broken roller, third, attached new roller, you can look at other rollers to see how it goes on, fourth, feed new roller into track, replace end cap. Takes less than 10 min, saved 85. 00 Bucks.

Took off old part. Modified new roller w'knife. Found a nut and bolt in scrap pile. Attached.

I first removed 7 Torx screws holding the plastic housing to the door. Then removed two hex screws holding the
dispenser in place. At first I thought that the wax motor was broken, but measuring it with an ohm meter, it had the same resistance as a new wax motor (about 2-3 kOhms). Examining the release mechanism it looked like the stem at the back of the latch was a bit bent. I replaced both the latch and the slider. However, I probably only needed to replace the slider. After reassembling the pieces, the soap dispenser now works. By the way, as another poster noted, you can only test the mechanism when the dispenser door is closed and the latch is
displaced from its normal position.

The wax motor seemed to work.
At first I thought something was broken and I tried to figure out the "theory of operation" Working the actuator of the wax motor, I COULD NOT GE THE LATCH TO MOVE THE WAY I THOUGHT IT SHOULD. I ASSUMED EITHER IT WAS BROKEN IN SOME WAY I COULD NOT DETECT OR THERE WAS A FLAW IN ITS DESIGN!

It took a long time to figure out the latch would not be worked open unless it was actually holding the lid- this positions the latch at "half mast" and allows the mechanism to "pick it up from there" and open the rest of the way. So once I figured that out, I concluded the failure was really just worn out parts that were out of tolerance for how this "half mast" position and opening was supposed to work. So I ordered all fresh pieces just to be sure, assembled it (very easy) and put it in (easy). It all works fine now.

First I called a repairman. He saw it was a certain model Maytag and would not fix it. It washed, but would not drain, so rather than buy another I took about an hour to carefully remove the washer and the motor / bowl unit from the body. Then it was easy to see what was wrong. The problem was a broken lifter arm in the bottom of the bowl. This caused the drain solenoid piston to "travel" too far and actually dislodge from the solenoid during use. You have to remove the lower spray arm, drain grate and then the lifter is a little black plastic "arm" on a metal rod that is actuated by the solenoid under the washer. The lifter fits over the rod and is held with a snap ring. Re-assembly was easy.

Whoever manufactures this part, hope they read this and strenthen this part. The very thin legs break very easily.

I removed the threaded broken-off part from the extension thing. The spay arm came off, since nothing was holding it on any more. I pried the cover off below that - 4 tangs.
Then I used needle nose pliers to unto the strange pointed nut that holds the spray arm support in place. Then removed the borken support, replaced with the new and reassembled in the reverse order of disassembly. Really pretty easy.

float was missing palnut and letting the float slide up too much causing small leak around the float

We were happy to find the basket we needed listed on your website, even after we could not find it on the Maytag site. It was perfect. I can't believe we lasted almost 2 years with the broken basket we had.

After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

I simply ordered new rack assembly for the upper and lower rack units. Removed the old racks and slid in the new ones. I gotta say, Part Select saved me $50 for these racks compared to everywhere else I looked and called.

Thank you Part Select !!!

The dishwasher is well engineered to perform this work.

Remove the bottom two panels to provide access and visibility to base of pump motor.

Locate plastic pump locking lever and push toward rear of DW to unlock pump from DW.

Inside the DW remove basketsand spray arms. Revove screws holding cover over pump motor and remove cover.

From below raise pump motor and support with block (piece of 2x4 worked well).

insde DW, removre old gasket, clean well around pump and botom of DW, install new gasket.

From below remove block to drop pump motro back into place, and re-tighten locking lever by pull toward you.

re-assemble inside componets, run through a rinse cycle to test for leaks and replace bottom panels.




I

Suspecting the problem was a sticky gasket on the old detergent cup lid, I replaced the lid.
First remove the old lid by pushing one of the hinge pins (the one without a spring) out of the cylinder hole in the dishwasher door. Important: before completely removing the lid, note how the spring is installed on the other pin. Then, simply install the new lid and spring and push the non-spring pin back into the cylinder hole in the DW door.
My dishwasher now works fine! :-)

I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

First, the problem was the little rubber gromet on the soap door operator lever. It was not the door gasket. I had to use a torx driver to remove the 6 screws that hold inside door panel on. After separating the inside door panel from the metal door I was able to see the soap door operating mech. I then removed 2 hex head screws from the soap door operator. I was then able to remove the operators plastic lever along with the rubber gasket. I then slid the new rubber gromet over the operator lever and put the mech. back in place. I put a little silcone grease on the plastic slide bar that operates the plastic release lever of the soap door. I then made sure everything worked properly. I then put the inside door panel back on.
No more inside door leakes when the dishwasher is running.