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DVLR223ET1AA General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DVLR223ET1AA
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The timer knob was cracked and the metal "D"-Ring was broken on my GE cloths dryer
This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc
Parts Used:
D-Shaped Knob Clip
  • Lynn from MORGANTOWN, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer was making intermittent, loud, moaning and whistling-screeching noises (temporarily relieved by squirtin lubricant through the drum holes towards the bearing).
I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • BJ from WHEAT RIDGE, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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No heat
This is kind of embarrassing but ... Originally checked this site for what to get for the symptom and said 61% of time was high limit thermostat which was fairly cheap (14.95) but assumed with my luck, it would be the more expensive part the heating element coil with housing, so ordered that. (It was second on the list) Received it in no time, like less then 48 hrs. Was told when a friend stopped by that I shouldnt of ordered that, it was probably a thermostat as that is what they had to replace on theirs. So I said ok, I could always send the first thing back, so ordered the thermostat. It came quickly again. Took it out of the package and laid it down to change clothes to take the dryer apart and could not find where I laid it. Spent all evening looking and never did find it! So I ordered another one. (Figured by this time PartSelect was thinking this woman is crazy but good for business) Again it came quickly. Got it on fine but when I got to check the old one with the ohm meter (which I borrowed), nothing wrong with it. Nor with any of the other 4 thermostats. Finally took the drum off ( thanks to Youtube video for instructions) and obviously it was the initial part that I had ordered that needed replaced. Was a bit awkward to remove all the screws to get to it but not bad. Plugged everything back in and got the machine back together and works wonderfully! Lessons learned: 1st check the elements with an ohm meter (I will definitely be investing in one) 2nd do not open package until ready to use it especially after a bad day at work and 3rd go with initial gut instinct! I was very pleased with Part Select service!
Parts Used:
Heating Element Coil with Housing - 240V
  • Mavadene from Keosauqua, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Replaced dyer belt
First unplug dryer... very important. You have to identify the appropriate size socket wrench and locate all necessary screws to remove top panel of dryer and front panel. Locate belt drive. Remove old belt , replacing it with new belt attaching belt to dryer drum . Remove back panel of dryer to better reach and adjust belt onto tension wheels. Put dyer back together. YouTube gives you an idea of how to properly change a belt on dryer
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Vernon from BALTIMORE, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Switch was either stuck in start position or had to rotate full turn to start
Removed four allen head screws to expose inside of panel. Used flat blade screwdriver to raise spring retainer and turned switch counter clockwise to remove.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • DERALD from Burleson, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer motor was running, but the drum stopped turning. The drive belt was broken.
I followed the instructions in your detailed online video. Fortunately on my model there was a removable panel on the back of the dryer which provided easy access to install the drive belt on the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Great video and very easy repair.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Charles from POINT HARBOR, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Inop Start switch, holes in lint filter
Switch replacement needs only Torks driver, very simple.

The lint filter arrived damaged. The screen is mangled and the frame is cracked. It may be repairable.
Parts Used:
Selector Knob with Clip Rotary Start Switch Lint Filter with Frame
  • James from GRAND FORKS, ND
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Only heating on 'high' setting
Per suggestion of "Parts Select", I replaced the "high limit thermostat"....very simple task on the dryer: 1 - unplug from power source; 2 - remove screws securing top to front (open door, screws located beneath lip of unit); 3 - tilt top up allowing access to everything; 4 - remove connections to 'thermostat' (note which wires go where); 5 - loosen screws securing thermostat to unit and remove thermostat; 6 - vacuum any and all lint while unit is apart; 7 - install new thermostat and put everything back together; 8 - test dryer to see if repairs worked!
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat
  • E J from S HAMILTON, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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No Spin Cycle
Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.
Parts Used:
Screws - Package of 12
  • Richard from LORDSBURG, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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there was no problem
installation exactly how your directions told me on the computer
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Edward from Garrison, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Old lint filter was broken
Replaced the filter. Was very impressed how quick I received the product, no hassel... Nice...
Parts Used:
Lint Filter with Frame
  • John from Columbus, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Broken dryer belt on 30-year-old dryer
Found excellent instructions and diagrams online by searching under the model number. Best of all was the service from PartSelect. Belt arrived 24 hours after ordering. It was the right part, it was easy to install, and the dryer is running beautifully.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • James from Marco Island, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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broken belt
Took the top and front off. DO NOT TAKE DRUM OFF!! Lifted drum slightly and worked belt around drum. Replaced front and top. Took off rear panel at bottom near vent pipe. Put belt around motor and then tension pulley. Buttoned everything up and that was it!
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • John from Perry, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Filter metal net for lint has sharp netting
Replacement is easy = Tilt net for lint into opening and set by snapping left side then slide to right to seat into proper seal. Do not force either side when seating.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter with Frame
  • Dennis from Falling Waters, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Broken start swithch from moving dryer
Removed top panel from dryer. Unplugged the 2 wires for swithch, rotated swith, and removed. Reversed the process. Put parts back together.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • David from Rice Lake, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the DVLR223ET1AA
91 - 105 of 272