Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Freezer not getting cold enough to freeze ice cream
I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in. The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from a website even if it seems like a sure thing
Ice maker inlet tube was freezing up, and eventually the icemaker overfilled and completely froze up
After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!
Cracked the clear face of the door bin right in half by using it to shut the door over time.
Emptied the door bin, removed it from its slots, and gently spread the plastic bin sides allowing the broken face panel to fall out. Replaced one end in the notches, gently widened the opening at the other end to slide the new face panel in, and jiggled just a little to seat the panel fully. Done!
Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long
Broken front end of the bracket holding up the ice maker bin
You must have a nutdriver to replace this part. No wrench or pliers will fit in the space to loosen any of the nuts.
You cannot simply replace the bracket, because it's connected to the ice-maker assembly and it's a very snug fit. Therefore, you must remove the bracket on the opposite wall to give you room to angle the assembly and slip on the new bracket.
Be careful when you're screwing the nuts back in, especially the two in the back of the freezer. It's a difficult angle to keep a grip, and it's easy to drop the screws into the freezer (and then you have to fish them out of the bags of frozen peas)
1 - Remove the nuts from the broken bracket.
2 - Remove the nuts from the bracket on the opposite wall.
Now you have room to maneuver.
3 - Angle the ice-maker assembly and slip off the old bracket, and then slip on the new bracket.
4 - Align the brackets over the holes and screw in each nut.
The most difficult part was screwing in the two back screws when replacing the brackets onto the freezer walls. It's a pretty simple job that requires no muscle.
I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.
Ice dispenser was always crushing ice, and slow water dispensing
Replacing the water filter with the new style water filter was no problem...twist to the left, drop the old filter, line up arrows on housing and new filter, twist to the right and done.
Ice maker was always crusing ice. There is a spring deflector wound around the actuating rod towards the back of the ice dispenser. Pulled the ice dispenser out, slid the damaged spring off, and slid the new spring deflector on making sure to engage the actuator rod to restore it's action. Easy fix.
It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!
Moved refrigerator out from wall, unplugged from electric, removed plate at bottom back with 1/4 nut driver, turned incoming water valve off, disconnected water line from water valve on refrigerator, removed mounting screw, remove water lines from valve and electrical plugs, set old valve aside and replace with new valve, reconnecting water lines and electrical plugs then remount bracket, reconnect water line from source, open water valve and check for leaks, replugged refrigerator and depressed the door button to check to see if working. It worked and there was not any leaks. Replaced back plate and placed refrigerator against wall. Job completed.
Frost In Frezer Compartment Where Chute Meets Ice Cube Maker
Removed front panel (using small screw driver) by popping it out, disconnected wire from solenoid, removed solenoid which was rusted, 3 small philip head screws held it in place insereted new solenoid,connected wire snapped front panel back in. Clapper valve closes tightly and no frost in frezzer, saved my self a bunch of money.
Turn off the water. Unplug the refrigerator Take the back off of the refrigerator use socket wrenchs to undo and take off the water valve in the lower left corner of refrigerator. Pull out and disconnect electrical connections Pull out the 2 water tubes one for ice and 1 for water-white is water and black is ice. install the new valve and connect the water and ice back in the new unit connect the two power cords and reattach unit to the frame Turn water on and check for leaks. If no leaks put back on refrigerator and plug in. Wait 30 min to an hour for water to begin to flow back into the unit.
I removed the outer plate by sticking a very small screwdriver in the small holes at the bottom of the plate and pulling the plate toward me. I then removed the 4 screws from the internal plate and pulled the plate toward me. Then I romoved the 3 screws holding the old solenoid and unplugged it. Next I put the new solenoid in place and replaced the three screws. Finally I plugged in the solenoid and replaced the internal and external plates.
