DLB3 Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Inserted handle into slots

Removed the front panel,tiped up the top panel ,removed the drum, drive belt,motor and exaust tube assembly. cleaned and vaccumed all lint from every were. Removed motor from fan blade and houseing. Reinstalled moter and pulley that came with the moter and fan blade. reinstalled all of the rest of the parts and plugedin the wires. once all back together pluged into outlet and turned on and prasto works great.

Received part in two days.
Removed inspection plate by removing two screws. .Drum bearing was right there. With screwdriver
removed "c" clip, took out what was left of old bearing.
With screwdriver aligned drum, slide new bearing into place. Job was done. Instruction with new part simple and easy to follow.

Removed two screws on dryer top and removed top, removed two screws holding front of cabinet and removed cabinet front to the side, disconnected wires to door switch, removed two bolts from motor mount bracket, pulled motor back to access blower wheel, removed old wheel and installed new one, reversed steps, unscrewed old light bulb and screwed in new one.

Had pure hell getting to drum belt and putting it back onto motor pulley and idler, cussed a little, didn't really help . replaced front of cabinet and top, did test run all worked ok.

This job was a little difficult, espicially accessing the belt and idler pulley...

To perform this repair (please see numerous descriptions on the web for generic belt replacement) I had to rivet two loose parts to the drum in order to reinstall the drum. Specifically, the loose metal disk and hot air shroud at the rear of the drum (near the rear berrings) made it impossible to realign the parts to reinstall the three torx bolts at the rear of the drum during reassembly. These two loose parts are positioned behind the drum (when looking inside the drum) i.e. between the drum and the rear berrings.

It was necessary to align the mounting holes in the drum, disk, and air shroud outside of the dryer itself and then to rivet them in place (making sure the smooth rivet head was INSIDE the drum as to avoid providing a rough edge where the clothes could catch during tumbling). Just press the 3 torx bolts through the holes to establish correct alignment. Be sure to install the rivets ouside of the contact area between the heat shroud and mounting plate. You should see an indented pattern on the heat shroud that you can use as a guide.

It was also helpful to make a black mark on one of the drum mounting holes (inside the drum) and its mate on the berring attachment plate - to help orient you when installing the drum with the 3 torx bolts. It only aligns one way - and making the marks will save you aggravation while your head is in the drum during reassembly. Loud swearing at this point only punishes your ears because, after all, your head is in an acoustically punishing echo chamber - and the echoes make it seem as if the dryer is actually cussing YOU and your incompetence out...

I hope this helps someone else save some time in reinstalling the drum.

One additional pointer: you must remove the lower plate on the rear side of the dryer to wrap the belt around the tensioner pulley and motor drive. The belt wraps, from right to left, first around the motor pulley and then up and to the left around the tensioner pulley. Just place the belt around the motor pulley, and then pull the tensioner pulley toward you and leftward until it clears the belt, then push toward the front of the dryer - and let the tensioner contact the belt on the right side of the tensioner pulley.

And finally, the ribbed side of the belt makes contact with the drum and the motor pulley. The smooth side of the belt is in contact with the tensioner pulley. Good luck, and may the choice words I used during the process be unnecessary for you... for you... for you!

It took more time to figure out how to get the dryer apart than it did to fix it. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong parts the first time but Part Select was very helpful and efficient in helping me get the correct parts. I located the two screws that hold the top onto the machine inside the door frame at the top. Once the top was off, there were two screws that held the front door assembly to the dryer. The old parts (very worn and next to totally gone = none of the slides were remaining) were easy to snap out and the new parts easy to snap in to place. The Spa is happy that the dryer is quiet again and can be run when we have clients waiting. Thanks to you Part Select.

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

Ok so it finally died. Breakdown is relatively easy. UNPLUG the dryer before doing anything else. Remove the dryer vent plastic hose from the dryer--replace if torn. Remove the screws from the back plate covering the switches. Go to the front of the dryer--open door and locate 2 screws at about 11 and 12 o'clock. After removing these 2 screws you should be able to lift the top off the dryer. Take note of the wiring connections--I took a picture of the wiring from my cellphone just in case. Go behind the dryer and locate the access to the electric motor to remove the belt that spins the drum. There is a wheel/belt tensioner--remove the tension from the belt. You are now ready to lift the drum out. While you have this drum out, now is a good time to vacuum all the lint out. Once the drum is out, you'll see the heating element. If the wiring element is broke, just replace the wiring kit not the entire assemby (save $100). While you're at it replace the high limit and safety thermostats (about $28 for both) very easy to replace--unscrew and just replug the wires back to the original terminal locations. To replace the Timer/heat selector, remove a screw that holds the assembly and plug the wires back per your diagram or better if you took a picture from your cellphone. Assemble in reverse direction. Good luck!

Belt and pulley both broke. Ordered parts; received 2 days later. Took off front and top, positioned belt, replaced pulley and nut. Parts fit perfectly. Reinstalled covers. Ran dryer. Easy fix.

I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.

I was cleaning my laundry room when I noticed the gasket needed cleaning. While wiping it off it appeared as though I could remove it and that was my biggest mistake. Once removed it could not be replaced, due to the little parts that held it to the door began tearing off as I tried to put it back on. I ordered a new gasket and had it put on. It did not require any tools, just concentration. I've learned "if it's not broken, don't fix it"! I spoke with several other people and I am the only one who has removed a gasket. Thank you very much PartSelect for your help.

Remove old one, put the new one in!

I first throwed the breaker then I took the old bulb out. Put new bulb in. Turned the breaker back on.
It worked great

Removed two torx screws from the control panel. Removed timer with socket wrench and disconnected socketed electricals. Everything went slick.

The repair, from the time that the bulb burned out until it was replaced took about six months. I could have shortened the time if I had ordered the bulb sooner. It was difficult because I had to listen to a fair amount of nagging, which, thankfully, has now ceased. I also had to actually go online and finI opened the dryer door, reached in with my right hand (which happened to be holding the new bulb) and screwed the new bulb in. Tip: Screw it in counter-clock wise. This was not mentioned in the instructions. Come to think of it, no instructions were provided. The company might wish to correct that oversight.