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The dryer tub started screeching and then dropped.
Removed the top of the dryer above the dryer door by pulling the pop out plastic holds. I then removed the dryer plug in at the top inside dryer that controls the start when dryer door is closed. I thenremoved the screws that are located at the back of the dryer tub where the bearing is located. I then replaced the support bearing. I just replaced every thing I took off in reverse.
unscrewed the front panel,dissconect wiring and unscrew drum , just the 3 center ones do not unscrew the outer screws inside the dryer ,take belt off and pull drum out. unplug old element ,replace heating element. the most difficult part is to replace drum and screws,for best results screw one, turn drum and make the screw in six o clock position with each one so the weight of the drum does not fight you
All made simple by partselect.com as I was able to identify the part, and the delivery was quick and efficient. Rest was simple, removed two screws and the old filter mesh and put in the new one. It was done in less then 3-4 minutes.
First, used a putty knife to open the top of the dryer. Second, unscrewed the front panel and removed it by pulling up and out. The drum drops down slightly after doing this. Third, open the back grating and disconnect the belt from the motor and idle pulley. Fourth, Pull the drum (with belt) out through the front opening. Jerk up HARD on the back of the drum to disconnect it from the bearing seat. Fifth, replace bearing parts and seat according to diagram. I found it very difficult to unscrew the bearing axle from the drum. Had to hold down the drum and press hard to get screws to turn without stripping. Finally, put back together in reverse, don't forget to put A LOT of grease in your new bearing seat before reconnecting.
I first removed the top cover being careful to watch how the wires to the controls are connected. It is best to snap photos with your digital camera so you can remember how to reconnect the wires.
Pulling up on the drum, I lifted it out of the rear sleeve. Once out, you could easily see why it squealed. The metal bearing had groves on it where is made contact with the holder.
The difficult part of this was getting the 3 screws that hold the bearing to the drum off. The phillips screw head was easily marred if you don't have the proper screw driver bit. I think a better screw head would make the job easier.
After removal, the replacement was a snap. When everything was back together, the dryer sounded like new. The job took me about 2 hrs due to the hard part of removing the screws.
We had the rear drum bearing replaced about three years ago. The company that serviced it was quick to take our money for the diagnosis but took over a month (and a threat to call the better business bureau) to actually make the repair. This time I decided to do it my self as I had successfully replaced the the drum drive belt two years ago. The dissassembly was challenging but the repair it's self very easy. I opted to use nuts and bolts to attach the bearing assembly rather than the supplied screws as they did not want to tighten. Reassmbly was a bit of a challenge regarding the drum drive belt but I had the entire repair done in less than an hour.
Just a lint screen (which I had replaced once before) but the local parts store wanted more than twice what this cost.
Easy, lint trap in front, unscrewed the old base, threw out the old lint screen which was hanging by a thread, and put the new (and - KEY WORD - cheaper) part in. All by Myswlf!
