DCLR333GT1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

It was only a matter of putting a new knob in place of the broken one. No tools required.

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.

1. turn off gas.2. disconnect electric.3.Remove 3/8 gas line from rear of burner. 4.disconnect two electric connectors from gas valve assembly. 5.disconnect electric line from igniter. 6.remove two mounting sheet metal screws from front of gas valve assembly(5/16 socket). There also may be a screw holding assembly to the bottom plate.7. remove entire assembly from dryer by pulling out to the front. 8.remove igniter assembly and replace on new burner. 9. two sheet metal screws 1/4 inch hold burner assembly to gas valve assembly.10.Install in reverse order . it may take a few seconds for the gas to get down to the burner. don't forget to change over the air mix valve to the same place.

Knob stem was split, leaving the metal bushing on the dryer's Start switch. Used pliers to remove metal collet. Aligned new knob to switch, and firmly pushed replacement part into place. Tested results and found it to be satisfactory.

All we had to do was snap it back into place on the door

Ordered new part, part came in, snapped in to place. Took less than 5 minutes, the hardest part was getting the part out of the package.

First ordered the "bearing" strips (before I opened the front of the dryer and saw that the plastic housing the strips mount on, was already being reduced to the thickness of paper, as the drum was rubbing on it - bearing strips were long gone, (I should have addressed problem as first sound of squeaking). Went back on line, and ordered the upper support housing (approx $40). It arrived next day - although I didn't request that delivery charge / method. Put the previously ordered bearing strips on it, and Installed it relatively easily (after vacuuming the entire interior of the dryer). Nice and quiet now. Found receipt and owner's manual. It's 20 years old. Would rather fix it, than replace and have in landfill. It seems like it has a few more years in it. P. S. helped to watch a YouTube video on taking off the front piece of the dryer.

Make sure your power is off, When loosened the top and tilted back, the first thing I saw was the door switch, I guess I was just lucky I disconnected the two wires and checked it and it was bad. Got my new one from you and installed it. It has a ground terminal, which my model switch only had the two terminals. It working fine.I took the bad switch apart and the one leg on the copper U shaped contact had broken off. The Belt I have as a spare.

removed the old broken handle, and snapped the new one in place, total time; 10 seconds.

Snapped on the new on the new one. all done

PartSelect already has a good video explaining how to replace the bearing. The only thing that I would have liked information on is whether or not to add grease. It did not appear, on any of the PartSelect videos, that any grease was added. I read where some people recommended lithium or other types of high temperature grease. I knew better than to use automotive/petroleum based grease. I elected to use a small amount of lithium grease. Addressing whether or not to use grease would be a nice addition to your video.

Unplugged dryer and pulled away from wall a sufficient distance to be able to stand behind it. Located the four screws located along to top of the dryer control panel. Selected the correct torx bit (not philips or slot) and unscrewed all 4 screws. Front of control panel rotated open such that the inside of the rotary start switch was visible. Removed broken switch by pushing down the catch tab with one finger and using the other hand to rotate the switch counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn (to the 9 o'clock position). Installed new switch by inserting in the same 9 o'clock position and rotating clockwise until the metal tab locked the stitch in place. Used a vacuum to clean out lint and replaced panel and securing with the 4 screws. Attached the new selector know by lining up with hole and pushing in. Took the extra 2 minutes unscrew the band holding the air vent and vacuum the lint out. Replaced the flexible vent by tightening the band. Carefully pushed back the dryer, ensuring not to kink the flexible vent. Plugged dryer back in. Worked like a champ.

Removed old filter and put in new filter...no problem at all.