DBLR333EE0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Drum was misaligned and scraping againt the appliance housing due to worn-out slides.

Replaced the drum slides 2 - white, 2 - black. Replaced the slide housing (front drum bearing?). This part was worn due to worn-out slides that were missing.

Cleaned out old lint from rear of drum and appliance housing. Put new weather stripping seals on the lint catch exhaust. Checked drum belt for cracks and checking.

Buttoned everything back up and dryer works as good as new. $60.00 for parts, 1 hour labor and the job was done!

I removed several torx srews across the back control panel. Removed two philips screws under top of front dryer door. Pulled up on top surface of dryer case. Removed two more screws on backside of front door panel. Pulled front door panel forward and inserted drum slides into slots that they just popped into with a small button rod to keep them in place. The old drum slides were completely worn down or fell off. It runs like a new one again. It is over 10 years old.
The new door handle just snapped into place.
Original door handle had been broken off for several years.

Did repair as per the video except I did not disconnect wires, just swung front panel around. Only complaint...discovered parts were much more expensive than other sites.

I followed the video on how to repair

Open Door /remove 2 screws in top of door opening (this releases the top panel) /Lift top panel off of dryer (it is tucked under control panel) Remove the white plastic "arch" (front drum bearing) on top of door panel / Install new drum bearing and 4 each of the "slides" on the bearing/ There are two on each side of the "front drum bearing"/ Reverse the disassembly process to finish/ . You'll need a standard flat tip screw driver and a Phillips heads crewdriver to do all work

I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?

Removed the star bit screws on the top of the control panel then removed the front by opening the door and removing the screws in the upper corners of the door jam. I then removed the top which exposed the drum slides. NOTE: This model requires 4 drum slides and NOT two as specified in the video.

Upon receiving the parts, we went to the video repair instructions. We found these videos to be very well done and very helpful. It was great being able to pause the video at specific points until we were able to complete that step of the repair. All of the replacement parts fit correctly and there were no issues.

It was so simple. I removed the old ripped gasket by just pulling it. I followed the same direction with the new gasket by using a small screw driver to push in the tabs in each of the holes in the door. It works perfectly. They only fear I had was getting the part and the correct part, the model number of the dryer was on the door which made it easy.

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.

looked at video of dryer disassemble, replaced 4 bearing slides, reassembled. Dryer is perfect now , no noise. thank you for your parts.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that