DA6101 Amana Washer - Instructions

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.

First you turn off the main water supply or turn off the valves at the wall behind the washer unit. Second you disconnect the hot and cold water lines going to the washer unit valve. You then use 1/4 closed end wrench to remove one screw. Then you use a flat head screw driver to remove the two screws holding the valve in place. At this point use a 1/4 socket drive to loosen the clamp that is holding the hose that feeds water to the valve. Remove the hose. Then you disconnect the four wires and re-connect the wires to the new valve. Re-install the hose to the valve. Then you are ready to put it all back together.

Other guys have already spelled out in fine detail how to do the actual replacement. What I would add is this: First, I promised I wouldn’t swear during this repair. Second, I got everything I needed together including tools, a small bucket and some old newspaper to soak up the water that is sure to spill. I bought 6 foot stainless steel hoses to replace the old rubber ones. THIS IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as the last thing you need is a burst water line. Shorter hoses limit the distance you can move the washer without disconnecting them. The directions were wrong in that I did not need (nor could I use) the plastic sleeve over the outlet tube. So I very carefully had to pry this off without breaking the plastic bushing. And I had bent the clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve, and had a devil of a time getting it back on properly, so you may want to have a small tubing clamp handy as a replacement. Also, I checked for leaks before putting the valve back in place by holding it very carefully, powering up and turning the washer on and off a few times. Keep your fingers and sheet metal away from the terminals or your promise not to swear will be null and void! The last thing is that when I get into a project I go all the way, which meant pulling the washer all the way out and cleaning the floor and all the dust behind it, and even cleaning the washer itself. The result is my Maytag works like new, fills fast without the buzz and looks new, too. I love it when a plan comes together.

Watched your video and followed your instructions and it was very simple.We bought our maytag washer in 1988 next year it will be 30 years old we raised 3 children and for $21 and your video I hope to it last another 30 years

I watched your 'how to' video, then repeated the procedure on my own machine. The repair went pretty much like the video. The new valve corrected the problem, and in fact, fills the washer faster than the old valve. I also replaced the water supply hoses, as one started to leak after I jiggled it around during the repair. Very satisfied with the this sites experience.

Shut off the electricity (pulled thee plug). Working from the rear of the washer. Removed water hoses with Stillson wrench. Removed two self tapping screws with nut driver to get to the assembly. Slipped off the wires lugs one at a time from thee old assembly and slipped them onto the new valve assembly in the same location. Installed the new assembly. Attached the water hoses to the new inlet valves. Note: My washer had the hot and cold valves identified on the washer. The replacement valve assembly was marked hot and cold (H, C.). which was the reverse of the marking on the washing machine. Go by the marking on the washing machine.

Terrified that the washer water value would blow due to the noise... Diagnosed the problem, ordered the part and it took only 10 minutes to fix. The hardest part was moving the washer in the confined space, which required moving the driver out and sliding the washer at a 45° angle in order to reach the access panel. Once access gained it was straight forward. Step 1 removed fill hoses from supply. Backed the valve assembly out; detached water hose from value assembly with nut driver; detached wires'; value released; added new value and reverse process. Checked for leaks, reassembled fill hoses with new washers (stainless steel hose), ran cycle, checked for leaks, replaced washer in original position Need commend the video producer and repair person in the video. The narrative gave me the confidence that, Yes, I can do this.

Followed video that came with part.

Screwed the new “$40” dollar light bulb back into the recessed socket. The new bulb is much smaller that the original bulb and much harder to get fingers into small area where the bulb went. After several try’s, I got it in.

un hook electric and shut off water:
had to remove top of washer
remove two screws holding valve in place
un hook water line and elec. wires from valve
reverse to put new valve on
Billy Myers
Alamogordo,NM 88310

After disconnecting the power and removing the input hose connections I was able to remove the valve assembly through the back panel. I then removed the wires from the valve and disconnected the outlet hose. I removed the old valve and replaced it with the new one. Then reattached the outlet hose and 4 wires to the new valve. The assembly then was reinserted into to the back panel and screwed into place. Reconnect the input hoses and plug it in and it's ready to be tested for leaks & used. (I had no leaks, BTW. A little silicone grease on the fittings made reassembly go easier but it's not needed. )

Simple removal of the mounting plate holding the old valve to the rear of the machine followed by disconnection of the water hose to the washer from the valve and unplugging of four electrical connections. Reattached the new valve to the water hose and then reattached the new valve to the mounting plate, finally reconnecting the wiring connections (4). Installation completed by reattaching the valve mounting plate to the washer. The diagnosis was confirmed by blowing into the old valve's water inlet. Air would pass through the valve, confirming that it did leak when the valve was closed. Air blown through the new valve prior to installation would not pass through the new valve.

Removed 2 screws on the bottom of the front of the washer and pried the front off. Then removed 2 more screws for the top of washer and rocked it back to expose the water inlet vavle. Removed the water inlvet vavle and replaced it. Then put it all back together. Done

1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.

Part shipping was great got here in two days-

I pulled off Front panel (two screws) and lifted Top panel (2 screws) and disconnected the inlet hoses. I removed the old Inlet valve. (1 scew and valve to tub hose connection).

Before Installing the new valve, i shifted the connector positions on the selenoids to match the old valve. and installed by reversing the steps. All went very smooth. Thanks, It was easy.