DA6101 Amana Washer - Instructions

Actually, the loud noise would happen only when valve shuts down water flow after filling up the washer (when water flow stops and washing cycle begins).
Replacement part was almost exactly the same. I did not need little transparent hose piece (used clamp that was already there). I used a combination of repair tips others already listed here: unplug washer's electricity cord 1st ( turn water off ; unhook hoses from back of washer(...); remove top screw off of inlet valve's back panel first and push up/out the bottom; unscrew valve off of panel; without yanking things around much, note exact connections of cables & hose(s); replace with new part, and put back on in reverse order.
One important note: the new part's screw holes were ungrooved but not too hard to slowly work in the screws because of the soft alloy. Be patient, good luck!
PartSelect: Great website/catalog, great service.

I turned the water off, detached the hoses and unscrewed the water inlet valve. I unhocked the wires and reattached the wires in the correct sequence on the water inlet valve. Done in 15 minutes.

I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

First thing I had to determine what was wrong. The machine had worked admirably for a 1980 model but over the last few years cold water input had reduced to almost nothing. There was also a slight hum during filling but it had been so gradual I really didn't recognize it as part of the problem.
After checking that the cold water faucet, hose and screens were okay I removed the front panel to see how water flowed inside the machine. I suspected the inlet valve on the machine was not working correctly so I looked on PartsSelect and found similar repair stories. I ordered one and it arrived in 2 days.
Repair was simple. Turn off hot and cold water and disconnect hoses from machine. Mine were on snug so it took pliers to get a turn started. Lay them in a pan to catch drippings. On the back remove the single nut above the inlet valve and lift to remove the panel. Remove the two mounting screws for the inlet valve. If needed rotate the electrical connections on the new inlet valve to match the old and transfer the wires. Remove the small output waterline and transfer it to the new valve. Mount the new valve to the panel and resecure the panel to the machine. Snugly attach the hot and cold water lines. Turn on the water and after checking for leaks you're good to go.

First I unplugged the power cord from the wall. Then I turned off the water supply shut-offs at the wall and removed the hot & cold connections at the rear of the washer. Then I removed the two screws that held the assembly in the rear of the washer. I then pulled the assembly out about 3-inches, marked the new assembly to show the proper color of wire for each lug and disconnected the four wires at the lugs. I disconnected the rubber fill hose from the assembly and removed the assembly. Next, I installed the new assembly in the reverse order. It worked fine without any leaks & saved me from buying a new washer. My old washer now gets my clothes cleaner than it has for years - much quieter and quicker too.

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.

Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb

The replacement of the Water Inlet Valve supplied by PartSelect (model PS60378) was too easy.
The key issue was to remove previously the whole upper cover of the washer machine, including the Control Panel, and disconnect all the cables from the electronic Control Board, in order to work easy and freely to remove the inner water hose that is connected to the water inlet valve, working from inside and not from outside of the machine.
Care must be taken writing a notepad of the position of every cable, for not making mistakes when reconnecting them to the Control Panel.

My Maytag A308 is about 25 yrs old and has been filling by a trickle for a while - both hot and cold. I replaced the water valve and that fixed the hot. Cold still running slow. I switched the hoses, thinking one might be clogged, and determined that the cold shut-off was clogged. I replaced that with a ball-valve - about $10 - and it works like it used to. My advice to anyone who installs a shut-off to any fixture - sink, toilet, w-machine, etc - NOT to use a cheap washer-type valve - they tend to freeze up over time and do not close when needed. Same for clean-out drain on hot water heaters.

Water valve on the A308 was accessible and easy to replace. Required rotation of solenoids was easy and connections were obvious. PartSelect
pictures were very useful and price was better than other on-line sources.

Ron

removed cover, disconnected small water tube and disconnected electrical connections. Reversed above to install new piece. two nutdrivers required. Channel locks for supply hoses.

I removed the two hoses connected to the valve, then I removed the front panel by removing two screws on the bottom. I disconnected a drum hose connected to the top, tilted the top back, then separated the inlet valve from its metal housing by removing the screws holding it in place. I then removed the metal housing in order to have more access to the old valve. At this point, the valve was only held in place by a few wires. I noted which wires connected where and how the valve was oriented (Hot/Cold position), then removed the wire connections with pliers by grasping the connectors (not the wires). I then reversed this process to install the new valve.

The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you

I order a water inlet valve from this site It was the best buy around. The email from the site part came with a video how to change it. It was a 15 minute job. One 5/16 nut driver to remove the inlet valve and pliers to remove the hoes from the valve. Easy off easy on.