CYG2000AWW Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

This is a straightforward repair that you can do in an hour or less. Open the lint trap and remove the two screws. Use a screwdriver to pop up the top of the dryer. Remove two screws that attach the front panel. Now you can lift out the drum and then lift off the front panel. Clean out all the lint. Make sure the motor pulley turns smoothly. Tilt back the dryer diagonally to make the rest go easier. Loop the new belt around the drum (rubber side down) and reinstall the drum against the back wall of the dryer. Make sure the cloth liner fits perfectly around the ridge, with no folds so the drum rotates easily. Make sure the drum fits smoothly against the two rubber positioning wheels on the back wall. Position the new belt around the center of the drum. On the dryer floor, stand up the tensioner bracket. Tricky part -- thread the belt so it runs through the bracket and loops around the drive pulley on the motor, rubber side against the pulley. The belt should be tight, held by the tensioner. Reinstall the front panel so the opening aligns with the drum opening. Drop the top down, snap into place.and reattach the screws in the lint trap. Done!

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.

Unplug electric, open top, take off front, with a small Phillips screw driver remove two screws securing the coils, remove one coil at a time, unplug and replace with new coil, secure with metal bracket and reinstall front and top and your done.

The dual cil gas valves were out of resistance range. The new coils were easy to install with a screw driver, sockets set and multi-meter.I checked the coil resistance and one of the new coils were a little high, but I installed them and they have been working fine.

The online vidio was very helpfull

Unplugged the power cord. Removed two screws on lint vent , used putty knife to release clips to raise top at front of unit. Disconnected the plug from front door switch. Laid dryer on its back. Removed two screws to remove front including the door. Vacuumed lint from inside unit. Installed belt temporarily using two pieces of masking tape to hold it in place while properly routing the belt. Gave the tub a full turn to insure alignment.. Reinstalled the front of unit with the two screws. Righted the unit and snapped down the top. Replaced the two lint vent screws. Plugged it back in and done! Piece of cake!

I went onto the Part Select website, they have a problem solving section that told me the most likely part to replace first and a description of the machine and the location of the part. I purchased the part, I unplugged the electric cord first. I then opened up the front of the machine with a philips screw driver, changed the part with the philips scew driver, I put back the front of the machine and the machine worked. It doesn't get any better then that!

replaced the two coils, which took about 10 minutes

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.

Replaced cycling thermostat but wasn't the problem. Tested the coils with ohm meter & found no read on the one with 3 prongs. Replaced both anyway. Top of dryer is held on with 2 clips, popped it off to reveal 2 screws on front panel. Bottom is held by 2 clips must lift straight up. Removed bracket that holds the coils in & removed wires. They only go on 1 way. Installed new coils , no more problems.

Turn off power. Move dryer away from wall and release the top by lifting up to release the two clips. Lay top against the wall. Remove the two screws, one in each corner, left and right inside the cabinet. Lift front panel up and out away from dryer. Place along right side of dryer. You may need to unlatch the wiring for the door switch. Reach inside the bottom of dryer and release the belt. Lift the dryer drum out along with the belt. Observe the two guide rollers that the drum rides on. Using a blade screw driver release the clips that hold the rollers onto the spindles. Clean up around each spindle. Install new rollers in reverse order and put all back together. The hardest part is reinstalling the belt. Put belt around the drum, around the motor pulley and then onto the tension roller. Good luck..

Went to YouTube It was real easy.

Removed front panel unscrewed the 2 screws on the coil cover. The coil with two prongs had to upside down 3 the prong coil right side up that only way the cove will fit, plug them in re attach the cover and your done