CYG2000AWW Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

took out the old, put in the new

Raised upper portion of dryer using putty knife on clips just above dryer door. removed 2 screws on inside corner above dryer door, then completely removed the front panel. Lifter out dryer barrel to expose the inner workings. Removed the 2 rollers at back of unit...(be sure to apply some med. weight grease on roller shafts... I used axle grease). Also, had to replace the blower wheel, original was broken in half. With 1/4" nut driver(if I remember correctly) remove the 6-7 screws holding the front cover on the fan blower assy. Using pliers remove the spring clip on front of blower wheel shaft. Upon installing new blower fan you might have to align the new wheel on shaft with the flat keyway then using a 1/2" socket hold it on the front of the blower wheel and lightly tap the wheel in place till seated at the back of the shaft. I use to assume that the majority of the noise I was hearing was coming from the busted dryer. I did have underlying suspicions that there was another source of noise from within my domicile. Once the dryer was re-assembled and 'purring' just like new my suspicions were confirmed. I was able to verify that the source of the 'other' noise was from my wife. I miss my old dryer!

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good

I started with the process of elimination, based on the web site part failure percentage...so I started with the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse, without success. Next, I placed an order for the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part # PS334310. Which, are located behind the lower front panel

I basically followed the instructions in the video provided. They were very clear and detailed. I love this website. This is the second repair on this dryer using PartSelect.com Runs like new and I saved a lot on labor costs.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

by hand

I first had gone to the repair which told me there were only f few parts that could cause the loss of power including to the dryer light. They also showed how to test the units with an ohm meter. I then visited this site which also had how to videos for the actual removal and installation of the parts. I would like to have seen a step by step procedure for determining and testing to identify the defective part along with the video for replacement on this site. However, I did find this site most helpful and placed on order the part I needed. It arrived the very next day. And it took very little time to install. I had already removed the defective units. The dryer is again functioning . The actual cause of the failure od the defective unit was due to overheating because of a large amount of lent blocking the air glow at the blower unit. We clean the lent trap with every use. However this is not good enough. I think that the front panel needs to be opened at least yearly to properly clean the area in front of the blower unit. Hope this helps any of you other DYI people out there.

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

Unfortunately this was not the problem, it turned out to be a bad igniter, but, the parts would need replaced soon and now I have a almost new dryer. It was pretty easy and there was help online from utube. The parts were very easy to find and swap out.

Diagnosed the problem as a blown thermal fuse. Ordered High Limit Kit. Watched a YouTube video on how to replace the fuse. A little trouble with dropping a metal bracket -3- times to the bottom of the dryer. A little inginuity solved that problem. Replaced the high limit fuse, and thermal fuse. Cleaned duckwork thouroughly. Was very clogged with lint, which probably caused the overheat problem in the first place.Put everything back together, dryer fired right up!

Unplug appliance from power source. Started by simply using screwdriver or steel putty knife to snap up the top corners of the top section of the dryer. It swings open like the hood of a auto. Looked on the back side of the front panel and found small 5/16" bolts on either side. Removed these bolts and lifted up on the front panel to remove the panel. Slide panel out of the way far enough to access the coil kit on the lower front section of the dryer. (The wires going to the door control switch will allow this without unplugging.) May need a helper to hold the dryer drum up out of the way or prop it up as I did with a block of wood so you can easily unplug/re attach the coil wiring. There are two Phillips head screws that hold the coil keeper in place. Remove these two screws, unplug the two coils (front coil has a three connector plug and the one behind it has a two wore plug). the front coil has a small sleeve that I needed to transfer to the new coil in front. Inserted sleeve as it came out of the old coil, slid both coils back in place, replaced coil retainer being careful to line tabs on top of coils so that they lined up in the coil keeper. Replaced screws in coil keeper. Placed front panel back on being careful not to damage the felt liner that the drum spins on. Replaced the two bolts on the inner side of each corner of the front panel. Lowered the top panel and firmly pushed it back down so that the holders went in place. Plugged it up and it worked perfectly.

This repair is very simple. (1) remove the lint screen bracket on top - two phillips head screws. (2) Gently pry open the top of the dryer with a large flat head screwdriver. It hinges backward. (3) Remove the top two nuts on the front panel. Lift the panel upward off the lower brackets. The door wiring is still connected, so I just rotated the front panel to the side. The interior is now exposed. (4) Take the drum belt off the tensioner assembly and pull the drum out. (5) Remove the coil retention plate - two phillips screws. (6) Disconnect the old coils, install new coils. I started the dryer up while disassembled to ensure the new coils worked and the burner fired. But a word of caution ... don't run the burner long with the dryer apart, as it could overheat. After all of this, reverse the process. YouTube also has a couple good videos showing all of this visually. I have very average mechanical skills, and this was an easy job. Another word of caution: most of the metal surfaces inside the dryer have nice sharp edges. Invest in a good pair of gloves to avoid mincing your hands up.