CSX27DRXDWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Installed new replacement slide rail. Only two screws hold it in place. Very easy.

After turning off the water and power supply to the refrigerator, I removed the back panel and disconnected the water supply tube from the water valve. Next, I disconnected the water supply tubes leading to the icemaker and the water tank. This was done by pushing up on the white ring of the water valve and pulling the hose out of the connection. Next, I disconnected the supply junction at the bottom of the freezer door then reached inside the bottom of the refrigerator to pull the old supply lines through the bottom of the refrigerator. I disconnected the old water tank from the back wall of the refrigerator (behind the crisper drawer) and removed the tank. I then replaced the tank with the new tank I ordered from PartSelect which is a direct replacement part. I guided the new water supply tubes back into place in the same manner as they were removed then bolted the tank to the back wall of the refrigerator. Next, I removed the old water valve and replaced it once again with a direct replacement part from PartSelect. I then installed a new water supply line leading to the icemaker and made all the proper connections to the water valve. This was all straight forward and very easy.
To replace the water supply tube leading to the ice/water dispenser I had to remove the freezer door and lay it on a flat surface (kitchen table). I pulled the door gasket back and removed the bolts containing the retaining strips for the gasket. Once the gasket and strips were removed I pulled the interior door panel off revealing a Styrofoam panel covering the back of the dispenser. I removed the Styrofoam and found the water supply line which passed through an injected foam core. The old supply line was pulled out and the new line slipped right in place. I then put everything back together in reverse order. It was here that I discovered the door gasket to be rather difficult to reinstall. Well, not difficult actually but more of a pain in the ~!#$% and time consuming. Once the gasket was reinstalled I put the door back on, made the water connection under the door, and made sure everything was buttoned up. Electric and water was turned back on and the refrigerator was left to run for 24 hours with no leaks. With the exception of the door gasket issue, the entire replacement would have taken approximately two hours to complete. The door gasket issue added another hour or two to the project. Nevertheless, the time and effort was well worth it as it saved me a lot of money.

The vedio was great as a helping tool.Glad I got to watch it.

Really easy- turned off ice maker, powered down appliance briefly. Removed ice maker by removing 3 screws with 1/4 nut driver. Unplugged ice maker from power supply. Removed and replaced solenoid arm assembly. Reversed steps and whammy - ice cubes dropped.

Took old part out , put new part in. Was so easy thought we did it wrong. Ice maker working great, have lots of ice now. Thank you. Colleen

I started at the compressor and replaced the overload and the Ptcr first and that did not make the compressor start running again, so I replaced the capasitor and it still did not start, so I bit the bulett and replaced the Main Control Board and that is what I should have checked first, when I removed the old one I found a little burnt spot on the back that I could not see from the front. The new one did not look exactly like the old one, it had two more wire terminals than the old one, but just leave them blank and everything will work just fine!

I noticed water leaking from the bottom right rear of the fridge. I figured it was from the ice maker feed as I don't have the ice water feature on this GE profile. I shut the water supply off, ordered the part and received it in a few days. The defective part was easily accessible after I removed the cardboard cover. I removed the copper feed and unscrewed the old valve with a nutdriver. The new part fit perfectly, and even though there were instructions in the part to use the old bracket. the plastic water feed fit into the ice maker compression fitting with ease. I ran into a problem when I re-installed the copper compression fitting on the new valve,as I could not stop a leak from the top of the compression fitting. When my plumber originally installed the copper line he used enough pressure to deform the compression sleeve that slips over the copper tube. I had a couple of them in my "parts" drawer, so I took my tubing cutter and took 1/2" of the end of the copper supply line; slipped the new sleeve and re-installed the compression nut over the valve....fit perfectly. Turned on the water supply; no leaks. Checked the icemaker about 4 hours later and it made the first tray of ice. If I didn't have to deal with the water supply leak at the fitting, the job would have been finished in 30 to 45 minutes.

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

I had to defrost the freezer to free the icemaker. After that the installation was plug and play with two small exceptions: 1) I had to file down the width of the left hand tine of the old stripper so that it would fit the new icemaker, and 2) the motor housing of the new icemaker was slightly wider than the old one. It fit, but just barely. But I'm back in the ice again, no dripping water, all is good.

Ordered both rails to make sure they matched. Unscrewed old broken rail and other side. Screwed on new ones. Real easy and perfect fit. Unfortunately I didn't notice crack in drawer until then, so had to order it. Both ordered arrived in only a day or two and had the refrigerator back up and working easily.

put in two screws"very easy!!!

What a snap. I was so proud of myself, kept sliding the drawer in and out after the slide rail was installed. I thought I never would be able to fix it and I'm so glad ge had the piece that would fit into this older model refrigerator.

Snapped off the plastic plate covering the dispenser. Removed the four screws holding the mechanism in place. Remove the electrical connections. Pull the mechanism out and up carefully pulling the dispenser pad out with all the mechanism in place. Look at the mechanism before removing any parts to get a mental image so that reassembly will be easy. Remove any electrical switch or circuit boards and remove old parts before submerging the mechanism in hot soapy water for clean-up. The Clean-up will take longer than the disassemble and reassembling. After completion the dispenser works as it should.

Followed the video demo and would have been done sooner but for limited work space- narrow freezer compartment and the release tabs on the electrical plug. First home repair that the air was not blue and got done in under time allocated.

Pulled out old actuator pad worked the control for several minutes to free up the mechanism to make sure water would turn off. Then installed the new actuator pad.