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light not working
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
All the shelving rails had cracked, vegetable and meat storage bins dropped.
Removed the storage bins, unscrewed the old rails, screwed in the new rails and saved a Sears service call plus their mark up on the parts. Estimated savings was about $100.
Auger was rusted causing brown spots in ice and metal pieces in water
Took unit apart but did not take photos of how to put unit back together, so needless to say it took longer then it should have. My error. Ordering the part was very easy and within days the part arrived at my door. Should the need arise, I would order again from Part Select.com.
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
Water was not running out of dispenser but the ice cube maker was working
Well I Googled the problem to the dual inlet water valve. Luckily I found PartSelect for the correct part and the installation was simple. I now have both the cubes and water working properly from the dispense.
I emptied everything from door compartments.I removed the top cover of the door pivot with a phillips screwdriver. I removed the two screws that that hold the pivot bracket with a 8 mm socket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot bracket. Remove the old bottom pivot bracket with an 8mm socket and replace it with the new cam bushings.You must replace both bushings on the bottom of the door and on the bracket that mounts to the base of the body of the refrigerator. Reinstall the door and screws .The doors should be level with each other if they are installed properly.If not check the freezer door .The bushings may be worn on that door also.
Lower door hinge cam worn out/door dropped, not sealing
Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.
My wife called me at work and said the refrigerator was "peeing" on the floor.
When I got home I pulled the refrigerator away from the floor, checked all the water lines for leak evidence, and then took the back panel off to check everything behind. The water valve was leaking at the hose insert locations. I turned off the water, spent less than 5 minutes disassembling the valve from the rerfrigerator, and got online to buy another one. The part arrived several days before expected, and it took me less time to install the new part than it did to take the old one out. Now all I have to do is repair the floor damage I caused when pulling out the refirgerator!
I layed several small 2x4 blocks on the floor, then raised the door up from the hinge, using the small pry bar. Then removed the the screws for the hinge. Removed the screws holding the door stop and removed the door cam. Then, I replaced the door closing cam. Replaced the hinge and screws. I Lowered the door on to the hinge and applied a little lubricant to the cam and job complete.
I was so pleased to find your website. We have just one company here in Columbia,S.C. that sells refrigerator parts. I did find out that they wanted about $60.00 for both pieces. Needless to say,I was just going to do without. I knew there had to be someone else. I found you guys on line,ordered my parts for a little over $5.00 a piece,and I put them in myself. I'm talking standard GE parts,not knockoffs. I am so pleased. Thanks for being there. I tell everyone about you.
Cold water dispencing was becoming slower and volume of ice was becoming less.
Shut water supply off, removed power plug from wall and removed electrical connector from valve. Unscrewed two plastic nuts which retained lines to old valve. Remove old valve and reinstalled new valve with one screw. Removed inserts from end of lines. (These inserts keep lines from deforming.). Trimmed and chamfered ends of lines reinstalled inserts and installed lines to new valve. Turned on watter, checked for leaks turned power on inserted glass for water received good flow. Ice maker did not receive water. Due to low flow of water to ice tray because of low flow with old valve, ice built up in flexable water delivery tube that goes from back of refrigator to ice tray. Removed tube ran under warm water removed ice blockage reinstall tube all working excelent. This iceing problem took about anouther 15 to 25 min to correct.