CRE350 Range - Instructions

The repair was straight forward and the video was a big help. I removed the oven racks and then used a 1/4" socket with a nut driver to unscrew the bolts at the back. Since this is a really old oven, the connecting wires were a bit difficult to remove from the bake element connectors. They seems kind of stuck, so I took a small, thin screw driver and pried up one of the metal clamps of the connecting wire just enough to let me budge the connector to detach the bake element. Had to do that for both sides. Then I just put the new bake element in, attached the wire connectors, made sure the wires and the ends of the bake element were all the way back in their holes, screwed the screws back in, and then put the racks back in. It was really easy, except for the bit of a challenge getting the wire connectors detached from the old bake element connectors. Works now without catching fire. :-D

was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff

pull out old burner, lifted range top change the terminal which took about 5 min. close top put new burner in and was ready to go. works great.

From learning the hard way on a previous repair, I opened the circuit breaker for the oven at the circuit box (arc welders use 220 volts also). Then using a nut driver, I removed the two retaining screws and pulled the bake element from the oven (about 3"). Then I removed the spade connectors on both ends of the element and reconnected them to the new element. Then I gently pushed the element back into the rear wall of the oven and replaced the retaining screws. This procedure is extreamly easy and very straight forward, anyone could accomplish this task.

order pcs fit perfect.

I removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out, and one of the leads came off and dropped into the oven. I had to take the back of the stove off and feed the lead back through the hole into the oven. If I had been careful to keep the leads from dropping out of the hole, the whole repair would have taken only a few minutes. But even so, it was quite easy.

REMEMBER TO UNPLUG YOUR APPLIANCE FIRST!

My husband removed the screws that held the top of the stove on and then lifted the top up. It is hinged. He then took out the old insulation, wiped down all visible parts of the interior with a bleach solution and replaced the blanket insulation with the new insulation. That took care of the problem!

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

shut off power to stove. Opened the oven door, removed the racks. removed 2 screws holding the element in place. gently pulled element out to expose connections. removed connections. discard old element. reattach connections to new element and reinstall. very simple.

The old element burnt a hole in itself and just glowed in an area about the size of a quarter. I unplugged the oven, removed the two screws that held the element and removed it. I plugged the oven back in so we could use the top burners. When I went to install the new element I did not unplug the oven as the controls were off. I did not know the element was hot from the outlet (by design) so when I tried to attach the new element sparks flew and it welded itself to the wire so I jerked it looose. I then unplugged the oven, replaced a blown fuse, and installed the element.

Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

I first turned the power supply off to my oven. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the ends. After that I connected the new element to the wires on my oven and secured the element with the two screws and turned the power back on. I pushed the oven-on button and now I'm back in business.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place from inside the oven. Pulled the stove out , unplugged it and removed @ 6 screws that held the back on. Used pliers to pull off the slide-on connectors on the element. Removed old element.

Installed the new element through the oven, put the screws inside the oven to secure the element. Reconnected the wires on the back, replaced the rear covers on the oven, plugged the range in and slid it into place.

Tested oven and burnt off manufacturing oils.

Good to go.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site