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CDE852 Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CDE852
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blower motor was making loud noise
removed motor, saw that stablizers were broke and went to a local parts supply shop called SUNDBERG and was given a price of about 49.00 for three stablizers. at that point i went to the internet and found PARTSELECT.COM were i found the same parts for a fraction of the price,17.00, i could not believe it! SUNDBERG customer service was horrible.PARTSELECT custormer service is great and was just over the internet,any how the repair is done no more loud noise and wife is happy again ,for awhile.thanks keep up the good work.i tell everybody about you guys.
Parts Used:
Motor Isolator
  • alphonso from plainfield, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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burner receptacle was broken
The repairs were very simple we just disconnected one screw then removed the old one and replace with new one. The left side took a little longer, because of the 8 screws we needed to remove to take the back panel off. But once we had it taken off the replacement was a snap. Nothing to it.
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - Chrome - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch Surface Burner Receptacle Kit
  • Molly Grace from Victoria, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned out burner
Pulled out the old burner and plugged in the new!
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - Chrome - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Esther from Alexandria, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Control switch would not operate
Looked up schematic. Removed 3 screws holding cover. after I shut power off of course. Took off knob. Oriented new control to the one on panel. Disconnected each wire one at at time and immediately attached it to the new control for each wire. Removed screws holding old control and inserted and screwed to the new control and put the knob back on. Put the cover back on. Worked fine. Probably should replace the others as they don't turn as easily as the new one. Probably will spray some contact cleaner which will give me a few more years.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
  • Thomas from Batavia, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Broken Surface Burner control
Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
  • Thomas from Batavia, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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burned up switch
Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
  • Scott from Chehalis, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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burned burner control out of warranty
switch power supply off at breaker panel

unscrew control box assembly from stove

slide control out of stove

unscrew burner control out of assembly

transfer wiring from old control to new in same relative location

reassemble in reverse order

restore power

test burner in all positions
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
  • Daniel from Temple, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven door seal needed replacement, filters replaced
First we removed the door from the stove. Removed all the screws and removed the damaged seal. We replaced the seal and re-assembled the door.
Parts Used:
Cartridge Receptacle Oven Door Seal Grease Filter
  • Michele from Stafford, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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8 inch element not heating in cooktop
I removed the old element. I then plugged the new element in place. Simple repair, no tools required. Turned the cooktop element on to test for proper functioning. It heated properly. Repair completed.
Ordering the part was easy and it arrived within 2 days. Very happy with Parts Select service.
Parts Used:
Delta Frame Surface Unit - 8 Inch
  • LouAnn from Maquoketa, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The broiler would not heat. I saw a bad place in the element. Ordered a new one.
Received the new one. Installed it in 15 minutes. Thanks for the fast service.I will buy from you guys the next time I need a part ! Thank You, Henry
Parts Used:
Broil Element
  • Henry from Smithfield, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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not a prblem,just necessary to replace
even though these sre washable filters it's still necessary to change them after so much time
Parts Used:
Grease Filter
  • Peter from Wilson, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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grease filter did no fit much to large
switch went well
removed 4 screws and lifed front panal up and out
Parts Used:
Grease Filter Surface Burner Switch - 240V
  • charles from Newton, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Drip pans were a mess
Replaced the drip pans
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - Chrome - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Chhristopher from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Blower motor had frozen up.
Removed front wooden kick panel(2 cross recessed screws).
Removed 2 bolts holding blower to floor. Loosened 2 vent clamp screws on vent from stove(2 clamps). Pulled vent off of blower housing. Removed blower from under stove. Using a nut driver, removed 4 nuts from blower and removed the motor cover & motor from the blower housing, removed 3 screws from motor cover and removed the motor cover from the motor. Ordered new motor. After new motor was rcvd (about 3 days plus wk end) I removed the squirel cage from the motor shaft using a metric allen wrench. Then removed the mounting clamp from the old motor by loosening 1 screw. Placed the motor clamp and the squirel cage on the new motor, then placed the motor cover on the motor. Placed blower mtg bkt and motor on blower housing w/ the 4 nuts removed earlier. Placed blower motor assy under stove being careful not to damage the exaust vent behind the blower motor as I carefully put the blower motor into the exhaust vent. Placed vent from stove on stove and blower housing and secured w/the 2 vent clamps removed earlier. Attached the blower motor base to the floor w/ 2 bolts. Wala........complete
Parts Used:
Blower Motor Kit
  • Joe from Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Frayed and exposed receptical wires in cartridge
* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Receptacle Kit
  • Richard C from San Jose, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the CDE852
121 - 135 of 271