CDE852 Maytag Range - Instructions

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

Removed heating elements and dropped new drip bowls in and replaced new elements

Remove old filter- put in new filter. EASY!!!!!!!!

Simply unplugged the old elements and inserted the new ones.

Pulled out the old, plugged in the new

removed the two screws that hold the switch unit into the housing that sits on top of stove. Noticing the electrical connections, I secured the power to the oven by shutting off the circuit breaker. I then removed the faulty switch from + and - wire connections and cleaned and reconnected wires to the new switch and slid new unit back into upper housing and put the screws back in to hold it in place. I turned the power back on, toggled the switch, and heard the ventilation fan whirl. Piece a cake. So gald I was able to find the part. Teddy Schoewe, Winona, Mn.

Part was perfect fit. Good product, good value, great service.

Replaced the control.

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

Removed the door removed 2 inner panels Installed and reassembled A Cake Walk NOTE be careful not to strip threads

Installation was straight forward as the new vent cap was sized correctly for exhaust pipe (5 inch). Placed the mounting plate into the exhaust pipe and used 4 SS screws to anchor to house sheathing. The vent flapper was not flat, requiring that I carefully stress relieve it at 250 degrees and hold it flat while cooling to take warp out. Snapped it in place afterwards and then bolted on cover.

Took out burner (pulls out) Took out one screw that holds recep. in, cut the two old wires and attached new wires with wire nuts included in the new package.

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

Removed old filter and replaced with new.

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.