Top section of agitator slipping on ratcheting dogs
I popped of the fabric softner dispenser at the top auger by appling pressure with both thumbs rather than use the notch provided. This gives access to the agitator mounting bolt which was removed with a deep socket and extension on a ratchet handle. The agitator slipped right off the splined shaft by pulling upward at two points at the bottom. I ordered the complete agitator repair kit which included a part that improved the operation of the top auger, it may have been a factory upgrade at some point on this machine. I did use silicone grease where required and I feel that this is a must for longevity of the thrust washer. If you are ordering the complete kit, the o-ring seal for the inner cap is included. The machine washes like it was new.
The temperature sensor in the water mixing valve quit working. It would operate on manual, but not auto.
As with any repair job, the hardest part is getting started and figuring out how to take it apart. I first tried to remove the top, by prying up on it,( his has worked in the past). This only broke the plastic retaining clips. I then removed the two plastic covers on each end of the control panel, then the two screws that hold the front of the control panel down. and lastly slid the control panel forward and out of its slots. I then used a 5/16th nutdriver to remove the four screws from the back panel. Now I was able to pull the panel back away from the washer body enough to use needle nose pliers to to remove the four electrical plugs located on the mixing valve. I used a felt tip marker to identify the locations of each plug. I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the one mounting screw that held the valve in place and removed the valve. When the new valve arrived, It took about 15 minutes to re-install the valve and put everything back together.
I removed the cap over the ratchet mechanism, removed the ut holding the agitator in place, removed the agitator and cleaned all the parts. The assembly for the ratchet dogs was a 3 piece assembly that was included in the kit I bought from Part Select. I also bought a new cap and gasket since my old gasket had broken too. A new gasket was already included in the kit, so I didn't need ot buy the cap. I liked that th ekit included everything I needed and good instructions. parts got to me in about 3 days. Very happy with my Parts Select experience and the fact I saved at least $100.
Followed the video. Removed the case and holder clips (not really needed) and replaced the springs. It did nothing to stop the problem and there are no more fixes.
1. Unplug washer 2.turn off water, remove hoses from washer.3. Remove back cover, Remove screw holding inlet valve, carefully remove modular wiring, noting which wire goes where. Discard old inlet valve. Install new part. Reverse the above directions for installation.
Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.
Leaked, disassembly revealed it was the drive seal washer grommet. Drive block was also rusted out and frozen to the washer drum
Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong. Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!
I clean out the fabric softner dispenser on my machine on a regular basis and found the seal split. After looking at several sites to try and find this part, I found this one. Ordering couldn't have been easier and repair only required pulling up the cup for the softner and installing the cap.
I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.
We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame. We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)
Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is. So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah! Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while. New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.
removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.
