1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't. 2. Raise the control panel 3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them 4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size. 5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together. 6. Reset the break and test.
The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.
I pulled off the other 3 old knobs. Pushed on the new ones, which pushed on hard, but work. They stick out farther than the originals. They look a little different, but only to me. No one else would notice. The main part is, it works. A little spenty for my taste, but did not know where else to go and they arrived very quick.
Burner on 'high' only, no other settings other than 'off'.
SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.
This was so easy. I've looked for years in stores for these pans. I finally tried the Internet, found PartSelects and, holding my breath at what i'd find, voila'...perfect fit, perfect replacements. And it took just a couple days to arrive. I'll definately be back! /John
Burners were not regulating and they were just going on high
I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).
First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!
Did not need tools for this job. Simply lift burner element and remove old drip pan and put new one in its place. However - the drip pans that were shipped only fit on the left side of the range. The right side, where the grill attachment goes, is so shallow that the drip pans on that side hit the bottom plate beneath the burner element and would not let the element go down far enough to seat properly. I kept the two pans that don't fit for extras, but I still need shallower pans to fit on the right side.
Downdraft blower motor noise, fluctuating fan speed and binding. Also replaced indicator light for burner knob.
1. Turned off electrical breaker at electrical service panel. 2. Tested stove top to verify correct breaker was off as well as cook top. 3. Removed front electrical connection panel @ cook top. 4. Disconnected wires to blower fan. (Before disconnection I color coded wires for correct reconnection) 5. Removed the bracket holding the armored cable (protecting motor wires) and removed wires (where connects to electrical connection box). 6. Removed 4 nuts @ blower motor housing and removed blower motor housing and fan. 7. Removed 3 screws that attached the blower fan to the blower motor housing noting or marking the position of the housing to the motor bracket in order to have the same placement position. 8. Pulled the 3 connecting wires from the armored cable protector to separate housing from motor. 9. Removed the fan assembly from the blower motor shaft by using an allen wrench carefully noting the distance from motor face to the fan. 10. Noting/marking the position of the motor mounting bracket connections unscrew the nut and screw that secures the bracket to the motor. 11. Reassemble in reverse order. Note: I taped the motor wires tightly together every 3 or so inches to be able to slide through the armored cable. I also had to rotate the mounting bracket a little to be able to perfectly match the motor housing to the motor bracket.
The new fan motor works great but it's a little bit louder.