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Intermittant heating, arcing in the socket
Simple to do. Remove old element, remove screw holding socket, cut the socket wires with 2 inches to spare, assemble the newsocket and wires with heat shrink tubing, strip range wires, apply the wire nuts as instructed and shrink the tubning with a heat gun.
Screw on the socket to the range. Shut the lid and install the element.
The replacemnet screw is thicker than the original one, so you might want to drill out the hole very slightly. I did not but the resistance was high on getting the screw fully seated.
Top (broil) element broke in two on oven. Ordered part,it was there in three days. Quick fix, removed screw holding element to oven wall, unplugged wires, then just swaped out elements. Re-attached wires just as they were on old element and screwed back into same place and oven is working again.
Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan. 2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing. 3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire. 4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions. 5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).
* * * * I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)
Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.
Stove-top Burner intermittently shut off and on-wouldn't heat properly
removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!
I unscrewed the 3 screws that held the element in place. My husband disconnected the back wired part of element .Then he reconnected new element wires and I rescrewed 3 screws in of new element. Very simple. I just wasn't sure about the back wired part, but like I said my husband seemed to know what he was doing so I let him do that part!
Removed screws holding rear cover, removed cover. Male connector on Broil Element had rusted off and caused wire to fall onto the frame of the range, shorting it out.
Removed element by disconnecting other wire and removing the single Phillips head screw accessible from inside the oven. Released the element from the two hooks towards the front of the oven near the door and removed.
The wire to the element that burned off had a high temperature female push on connector that I did not have on hand. I had a high temp ring connector so I drilled one of the male connectors on the new element so I could use a small stainless screw and nut which I had to hold the ring terminal on.
After crimping the new connector on I fastened it to the element, connected the other wire and put the rear cover back.
The repair went real easy. Turned off power, unscrewed two screws at back of oven and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected two wires to new broiler element and remounted the new one with the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and had a steak cooking in no time.