ALG331RMW Amana Dryer - Instructions

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

First I take off all front cover and then the dirt strainer next is the dryer drum holder next the top cover I lift up and so you room to set the dum belt

I popped the top open by depressing the spring clips with a putty knife. I then used a socket to remove the two bolts holding the front panel on either side near the top. Once the front panel was removed, I removed the frame that supports the front end of the tumbler drum. I then removed the belt tension by sliding it off the motor tensioner and removed the drum. Once the drum was out I had easy access to the high limit thermal fuse that I had to replace. After the fuse was replaced I put it back together the same way I took it apart.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

I was amazed just how easy it was. It would have been much quicker if I had a nut driver instead of a wrench. The video was great. Thank you!

I got great advice and the know how form other's instructions. It was a really easy fix. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas valve. Open up the dryer by taking out the two screws securing the lint screen. Then pop off the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver. Disconnect the door switch and depending on model remove the two screws or bolts that keep the front panel attached. Careful, on my dryer once took the front panel off the drum fell forward. I kept it in place by wedging a small cardboard box under it. Unplug the two wires going into each of the coils. Remember which one goes where(2 prong vs 3 prong). Undue the two screws holding the bracket to the coils and remove bracket and bad coils. Put the new coils in, attach wires and bracket. Put dryer back together. Make sure to remember to plug back in door switch. I forgot and when I tried to test it wouldn't work and it got me worried that I broke it or something.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

As you see I replaced ALL these parts, not because they were broken but some were a little worn and while I had it apart, might as well do a total maintenance job. Could not at first figure out the thumbing, but while inspecting, notice the belt was almost cut thru, could have gone at any time, one drum support roller was dragging as well as the idler pulley wheel. Could have sanded down all the axles for each wheel but might would have too much play after Also cleaned every part and nook and cranny while all was apart. Put everything together and it still....thumped. While running I held a flashlight underneath and around every part, and finally found the issue. The very back of the tumbler had a hair line crack about one inch long, causing the two pieces of metal to get in a bine while at the bottom of the rotation exactly between the two rollers. Soooooo, at 450.00 for a new one, I just used a screw driver, steel punch and hammer to mold in like I wanted and it quit making any nosy, applied HD steel tape on both sides so the crack will not catch cloths while drying and presto redneck engineering at its best...no more thumping and is as quite as the day we bought it, and since cleaning out all the internal ducks it dries much better and faster. Otta last several more years, yaha.

Disconnect power supply. remove two 5/16" machine screws from bottom front cover, pull out and down cover will pop out. open door and remove lint screen. Remove screws from top of dryer and pop it off and get out of the way. Now remove front panel and lint screen body. there are screws inside of dryer for screen body. Make sure to take photos of wires or make a diagram so you put them back correctly. Now you can remove drum and see pulleys. This is all pretty self-explanatory. Just re-assemble in reverse. Whole project takes maybe 45 minutes.

I followed common causes list for this problems from website. It is described that the coils are the most common reason then a list of other parts including High temperature fuse, thermostat, High limit temperature fuse, etc. Replace all these and problem remained unsolved. I search other website and found out that 9/10 times this problem is caused by a blown <<- IGNITER ->>. I inspected and indeed that was the problem. It is PITY that "Partselct" did not display this common cause just because they don't have this part available. I expended about $100 in unnecessary parts. Thank you very much !!!

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

Turn off dryer 220V breaker at panel. Remove front kick panel (two 5/16 hex screws at lower corners). Check continuity of high limit thermal fuse with meter; no continuity: fuse blown. Remove two wire clips with pliers. Remove fuse with nut driver (two 1/4 hex screws). Install new fuse. Replace two wires. Replace kick panel with two screws. Reset breaker at panel. Reset, start timer: dryer has heat.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?