ALE331RCW (PALE331RCW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

Ordered new lint filter from part select; paid for it with credit card on line; waited for delivery in one week; received by ups; unboxed; cleaned filter trap area with vacume; and dropped in new filter.

removed screws from front of dryer,lower bottom [2]removed screws from top panel at bottom [2]removed screws from top front [2]raised top cover. removed drum ,slipped belt off drum.replaced roller and belt.drum turning hard has made motor overheat and stop. i need a motor will order from parts select. good price fastest shipping.

very easy

I had already taken the dryer apart prior to changing the felt seal. Had oiled the rollers, greased the bearings & vacuumed the whole inside of the dryer out. Had used a high temp lubricant on the seal & had stopped squeaking for about a month. I ordered 2 seals & when they arrived, I popped the top of the dryer off using the putty knife to pry the spring latches. I opened the top up & leaned it against a wall. I disconnected the wiring to the light & the switch in the door, making note of the wiring order. Then used a nut driver to take the 2 screws from the inside out, that holds the front cover in place. Then the same for the 4 screws holding the front bulkhead in place. Then lifted up & out from the unit. Then used the putty knife to scrap the adhesive & old seal off the bulkhead. Cleaned as much of the adhesive off, then applied some high temp silicone adhesive to the bulkhead, placed the new seal on, using some clamps to hold it in place. After making sure it had adhered to the seal & bulkhead. Did the reversal of the above mentioned steps. Moved the unit to laundry room, plugged it in then started it & voila no more squeaking dryer.

The repair went better than expected. I watched the video of how to replace the dryer belt and although it wasn't exactly the same, just by watching the video I was able to find my way through the process. Thank you very much for taking the time to create the video, it was very helpful and saved me a bundle of money by being able to do the repair myself.Thanks again!!! Dano, Melbourne Fl.

removed front, top cabinet, drum, belt and motor. replaced idler pulley on motor. replaced motor, belt, drum and cabinet parts. test ran fine.

This is merely taking the old filter out and putting the new filter in. You will not find this part unless you go online or get lucky and find one in a used dryer. It is not necessary but I do recommend vacuuming the inside of the dryer beneath the filter. It is amazing how much lint can be in there.

I removed the top and front of the dryer then the lint filter housing and frame that holds in the drum then the drum belt and drum. Found that tha drive pulley was spining on ths shaft. I removed the fan cover, so I could remove the fan. I disconted wire harnsh and removed motor clamps from back and front of motor. Removed drive pulley and held shaft with a pare of chanellocks. I removed fan with 7/8 socket and impact drill.Then I replaced the motor by taking the motor frame out of the drier for easyer actess. Install fan on new motor by holding drive pulley with cressent while putting on fan with impact drill. Put motor in u shaped saddles making sure they are seated in the bottom. You may have to turn the barring a little. Then reinstale clamps. Put motor back in drier and put drier back togeather. simple saves money 144.00$ for motor and beld no labor. Ed from Mojve CA.

As you see I replaced ALL these parts, not because they were broken but some were a little worn and while I had it apart, might as well do a total maintenance job. Could not at first figure out the thumbing, but while inspecting, notice the belt was almost cut thru, could have gone at any time, one drum support roller was dragging as well as the idler pulley wheel. Could have sanded down all the axles for each wheel but might would have too much play after Also cleaned every part and nook and cranny while all was apart. Put everything together and it still....thumped. While running I held a flashlight underneath and around every part, and finally found the issue. The very back of the tumbler had a hair line crack about one inch long, causing the two pieces of metal to get in a bine while at the bottom of the rotation exactly between the two rollers. Soooooo, at 450.00 for a new one, I just used a screw driver, steel punch and hammer to mold in like I wanted and it quit making any nosy, applied HD steel tape on both sides so the crack will not catch cloths while drying and presto redneck engineering at its best...no more thumping and is as quite as the day we bought it, and since cleaning out all the internal ducks it dries much better and faster. Otta last several more years, yaha.

Disconnect power supply. remove two 5/16" machine screws from bottom front cover, pull out and down cover will pop out. open door and remove lint screen. Remove screws from top of dryer and pop it off and get out of the way. Now remove front panel and lint screen body. there are screws inside of dryer for screen body. Make sure to take photos of wires or make a diagram so you put them back correctly. Now you can remove drum and see pulleys. This is all pretty self-explanatory. Just re-assemble in reverse. Whole project takes maybe 45 minutes.

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

Turn off dryer 220V breaker at panel. Remove front kick panel (two 5/16 hex screws at lower corners). Check continuity of high limit thermal fuse with meter; no continuity: fuse blown. Remove two wire clips with pliers. Remove fuse with nut driver (two 1/4 hex screws). Install new fuse. Replace two wires. Replace kick panel with two screws. Reset breaker at panel. Reset, start timer: dryer has heat.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

I replaced the two drum support rollers, the idler pulley wheel, and the belt. Replacing support rollers and pulley wheel requires snap ring pliers, to spread apart the tiny retainer ring that holds the wheels onto the shafts. Get a good quality one! The $23 pliers at Home Depot works great. The one I got for $3.99 online was garbage, and caused me to break one of the retainer rings. I'd recommend buying an extra retainer ring before beginning this repair, and practicing using the pliers with it. It's a very delicate operation and you have to have a steady hand. RE the Idler pulley wheel - this was the most likely cause of the squeaking noise. The old one had a deep groove worn into it by the belt, which may have caused it to spin off-balance on the shaft, resulting in the squeaking noise. RE replacing the belt: at first this task looks impossible, because you can't see exactly how the belt is threaded until you fully remove the drum, but you can't remove the drum until you've removed the belt! Put your hands behind and try to feel how it's threaded, before removing the belt. I drew a diagram to help me visualize how the belt is positioned: looking at the drum from the front, imagine the belt running clockwise around the drum, and after it goes across the top of the drum to the right, it threads UNDER the idler pulley wheel, then clockwise around and under the motor shaft, then back under the drum and around (I hope this helps, it's hard to describe in words). To replace the belt you need to first remove the two screws that secure the top panel of the dryer, and lift the top panel up (like the hood on a car). Then the sequence of steps to replace the belt is: 1) slide the belt off the drum, toward the back of the dryer. 2) remove the drum from the machine 3) if belt is still threaded, make a note of how it's positioned 4) Remove the belt completely 5) thread the new belt under the pulley wheel and around the motor shaft as described above, and 6) keeping the belt fairly taught, place the drum back in position and slide the new belt around the drum in the reverse direction, from back toward front. 7) test the belt by rotating the drum a little to ensure the belt and motor are rotating smoothly together. IMPORTANT: the ribbed-rubber inner side of the belt must be in contact with the drum and with the motor shaft. The belt may twist as you're putting it on, so feel it all the way around to make sure it's flat, and untwist it if necessary. Hope this helps -- it will make more sense when you're actually doing it. Though this may all seem complicated, it's actually a fairly simple machine with only a few moving parts, so it's not as hard as I am making it sound. Courage, and good luck!

Took apart front and top panels. Eight screws in total. Removed belt from pulley then drum. Removed both support rollers, idler pulley. Installed new items. Five wires that must be removed and reinstalled. I made diagram of wiring. Drum glides remove easy. Install new ones. It is best to install the belt on drum, then on the pulley. Install all panels.