AGM479L2 Dryer - Instructions

Looked on your wonderful site and found two parts that were listed as 80% the problem. Took a chance and ordered both parts. Husband replaced both parts. And, yeah. . . . . . . . . We had heat. So not sure which one it needed. . . . But, the price of your parts beat the costs of any repair man. Thank you so much. We're drying clothes again!!! Lk

I first replaced the temperature sensor. That did not help and when doing investigation when thr drier was warm I found the vallve would open and close if I touched the coils

took dryer apart and replaced the drum support rollers. This did not work and problem is still there. The videos at the part select did not help since they seemed to be for a different dryer and nothing in them helped in any way to work on my unit. I did get a repair man out and was told that he had not seen one built like this one before.

The front of the dryer disassemled a bit differently than the video, but once I came to the conclusion I was going to rip it apart, I figured out how it needed to be done. That added about 5 min. to the repair. The main culprit was the idler pulley, it was nearly completely frozen, but I had ordered all the most likely components, so I also changed out the rear support rollers & front glides. The belt was actually in pretty good shape, but I swapped it out also so I wouldn't have to do it in the (near) future. I had to take a 2nd look at the video for belt routing on reassembly. Without tension on the belt it doesn't look like it would work, but once the tension is added the the belt separates so it's not rubbing on itself, like it would appear to do before being tensioned. All and all it was a fairly easy fix and for $47 incl. shipping, much cheaper than a new dryer or even a service call... Thanx

The only difference is that I took apart the front frame, that is the white plastic plenum. The videos were of a clean machine, mine was not. I decided to wash the plenum so I took it off the frame. Had it not been the middle of winter in St. Louis, I could have hosed it clean outside, but not this winter. Disassembly allowed me to clean the plenum in the sink.I was extremely impressed with the service and videos. I will be doing business with you in the future and am telling all my DIY family and friends.

I just followed the intructions from the video on the website. That made the replacement easy.

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediately after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

Pulled the front, loosened the top, released the belt, pulled the tub, pulled the motor, and replaced the idler pulley lever and shaft and the idler pulley wheel, and the belt.

Replaced glides, belt, and rollers, but problem still existed. Next, I purchased a new motor and problem solved! Repairing my dryer was easier than I had previously thought it would be.

I had two repairs, a few days apart while waiting for diagnosis and parts. I watched the videos and followed the steps, simple as that. I was able to replace the rear roller wheels without taking the drum all the way out. I tried the dryer with this 1st fix, some sounds went away but the worst one remained. Took the drum all the way out and replaced the idler pulley wheel just as the video shows. Everything went back together just fine- no extra parts and the dryer is soooooo quiet. My wife thinks I'm a stud for doing this, thank you partselect.com. A caveat, the e rings that hold the wheels on are a big pain to remove and reapply. The snap ring pliers needed to get these off don't always fit in the little openings to remove the ring.Get the smallest size tips if you buy the pliers. My pliers got an "A" for effort, a "D" for results. I used a pair of slotted screwdrivers to manipulate the rings off. Your mileage may vary.

The problem was easy to troubleshoot using the PartsSelect diagnostics on the website. After viewing the instructional videos for the parts I suspected I placed the order. When the parts arrived I reviewed the videos prior to attempting the repair. The problem was a drum support roller. I began by removing the top and front panels. The model I have was older than the video and the only trouble I had was that the top panel was screwed in place instead of clips. Once that was figured out the repair was pretty easy. I removed the drum, belt and replaced the Drum Support Rollers and Drum Glides, installed a new belt and reassembled. The parts for this type of repair are so reasonable that some of the parts I replaced were to insure longer life but actually were not in bad shape. Overall this was a very cost effective and relatively easy repair.

Motor was replaced with common hand tools, after replacing roller guides and belt.

Removed the 2 screws from the lower front cover and removed cover removed the 3 screws from the return air duct and removed duct removed the wires from the gas control coils and started dryer checked for voltage at the wires there was 120 volts present replaced both control coils and limit switch (replaced limit switch because they are a common problem) Happy wife Happy life

I looked at a couple of videos on U tube. Then ordered the parts ($43 total). First put in the High Limit thermostat (really a bimetal circuit brkr). Dryer tested good (that part was only about $7). But since I also ordered the Limit Thermostat (I think this just sets the temperature by regulating burner on time) I put that part in also and retested. All tests good. A repair house call costs $75 around here and that doesn't even include parts and maybe a revisit to install them. Simpler and cheaper for me to replace $43 total in parts. Dryers are simple devices. It ain't rocket science.

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.