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PartSelect Number PS11741920
This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
To make working on the dryer easier we tipped the dryer back, about 45 degrees, removed the bottom panel, the door panel, note: make sure to mark the inside chassis or case with a sharpie where the wires go by color, etc… note: this makes it easy to place every thing back in order. I removed three screws on the bottom left side, to allow the more room for me to remove the drum. You can not remove the drum just yet but until the rubber belt is removed. I went below where the tension wheel is… it’s back behind the motor… incidental the tension wheel and the arm was the problem, it had warn to one side. Now release the rubber belt around drum. I pulled the drum out. The motor assembly is all one piece so it’s easy to remove. Don’t forget to unplug the plastic Molex plug and mark where you wires go. Two screws in front on the motor assemble and the whole assemble comes out. From here I could do a good job of cleaning the motor assemble and replacing the parts without any difficulty. Re-assembly was really easy, just one issue with placing the rubber belt took some time, and I need some help. I was finished in less than two hours. Bingo fixed!!
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The pully wheel was completely worn down as the belt had cut into it over time. I'm not sure if the lever and shaft needed replacing but since the part was inexpensive I decided to replace it as well as the wheel. The easiest way to access the parts was to turn the dryer on its side and remove the bottom panel of the dryer. This eliminated the need to remove the drum. It was then easy to reach in with a wrench and remove nut and bolt that held on the pulley lever. I also had to remove the spring which was attached to the lever. Next I put the new pully wheel on the shaft of the new pulley lever. The most difficult part of the job was installing retainer clip which holds the wheel on the shaft. This took a little persistance. After this was done it was simple to put the assembly back in place, reattach the spring and tighten the nut and bolt. I then replaced the bottom panel of he dryer, turned it upright and plugged it in. The whole job took just over an hour. One tip: Before removing the old assembly, I took a picture of it with my cell phone camera so I would remember how it went back together.
Removed the two sheet metall screws on the front foot panel, removed the four screws holding the door assembly, wrote down the wiring placement for the front door, removed the blower bulkhead assembly by removing one screw in the bottom of the dryer. Removed two screws and propped the dryer top panel up at a 45 degree angle to gain additional clearance. Removed the drum and belt from the front and back seals by applying simple outward pressure. Removed the screw in the bottom of the motor assembly allowing me to reposition the assembly for easy access. Removed bolt holding old Idler arm assembly. Assembled new Idler pulley referring to old assembly. Reversed the process to complete the repair. Note: I found it easier to simply hang the dryer belt over the dryer drum when replacing the drum in the dryer. First you need to place and align the drum then route the belt back to the moter pulley and then over the idler pulley. if you try to put the belt over the motor and then align the drum, it is difficult to keep the belt on the pulley. It might help to draw a diagram of the belt route or obtain the belt route diagram from the website for reference. Very easy job.
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
First of all I would not have done this if it wasn't foryour website. Using the schematics to figure outthe right parts was easy. It was also helpful in theactual repair process. I have added your website to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.M.B.
Loud squealing noise coming from the idler pulley. The pulley was not spinning freely on the shaft of the idler pulley lever to the point of putting a groove in the pulley and damaging the belt. To fix the problem replaced the belt, idler pulley, and idler pulley lever. Because I had the dryer apart also replace the following items. Drum support roller and drum slides.
It was pretty simple, really. Quite honestly, Parts Select was the first website that had my model number listed, and even had a diagram of the dryer. Once I removed the covers, it was very obvious that the belt tension pulley was bad, One side was worn away. I ordered both parts, the new pully, and the tension arm with the bearing, since I had no way to tell which was damaged, causing them to bind. They simply bolted to the motor assembly. The hardest part was reassembly. Getting the front panel on and being sure that the tabs holding it in allignment, and that the drum spun freely was really the only concern. The repair took less than 1 hour, and after seeing the inside of my dryer, I am convinced I can easily replace ANY part of this appliance and keep it running as long as I can find parts.
Pulled bottom access panel of, pulled front door section off, pulled lint filter assembly out, pulled drum out, disconnected idler arm, installed new idler arm and wheel, new belt around drum, drum back in, front door assembly back on, then routed belt over idler arm wheel, lint assembly back on, bottom access panel back on. very easy job, the hardest part was pushing the new idler wheel over the new pulley lever, but with a few firm taps with a hammer it was on. *Tips...save the idler wheel washers and retaining clip from bad wheel and be sure to draw yourself a diagram of what color wires hook up where, in case you forget.
I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....
pulled dryer out far enough to lean it back against an object for supprt. removed small bottom front cover then door front after disconecting light and switch wires(make note of which goes where), remove top bolts and flip over carefully allowing to hang without disconnecting wire harness, remove belt and drum. at this point it was posible to get to the belt tentioner pully w/o removing the motor but was easier to replace after i discovered there were only two bolts holding the motor in place. at this point i needed two wrenches to remove the pully lever from the motor frame and replace. put everything back together in reverse and no more screaching. : total parts needed were $27.00 as i thankfully decided to replace pully and lever asumming that six months of screaching may have caused wear to the lever and was right. i replaced the belt while i was in there bringing the total to $42 and change. the belt was not needed so i now have a spare which may come in handy someday. thanks to partselect.com i saved BIG $ in repairs or replacement and now have turned the buzzer on to know when the laundry is done.
I unplugged the dryer then removed 2 sheet metal bolts on the lower front access panel. The panel was removed and this exposed the duct for the hot air exhaust. I had to remove the duct to access the package for the motor and worn out pulley. I had to the remove 2 bolts in the bottom corners for the upper front of the dryer. The upper panel was then easily removed, 3 phillips screws had to be removed from inside the drum area on the back of the exhaust duct where the lint filter is inserted.Once these are removed the duct cowms right out.This exposes the motor and tension pully platform. I then reached in and moved the tension pulley to relieve pressure and took off the belt that drives the drum.There are 2 botls at the front base that need to be removed then the platform can be slid forward and the rear tongue comes out of the groove. Rotate the platform 45 degrees and you can access the bolt and nut that mounts the pully arm to the platform. Once removed the spring can be removed and the assembly taken out of the dryer and parts switched over, There is a spring clip you will need to remove normally with a special tool but 2 needle nose pliers will work. Once the parts are replaced reverse the process. Putting the belt back on can be confusing lying on your back with one arm inside the dryer but persistance overcomes resistance,
when i first heard the noise i thought it was the belt. after changing that i still heard the noise but louder. so i took off the bottom face plate took off the door and the bracket holding the tumbler then took out the tumbler to see what was wrong. being a 6' 4" 250lbs it was hard for me to see what was behind the motor. i finally saw that the idler wheel had come half way off of the lever. I changed the pulley lever, pulley wheel and all the washers. it was fairly simple. and when done the noise was gone. it only costed me about $15 which made me happy cheap fix.
Not my first dryer repair. This is an easy fix, even for a "novice." Just follow the directions that can be found at several websites, and pay attention. Easy to do, and will save you $$$. This is also a good time to clean excess lint out of the dryer! You should also inspect the felt that the drum rotates on. (And sweep underneath the appliance. Who wants to do that on a regular basis!!??)
Removed the screws holding the bottom to the sides (but after taking it all apart, I think I could have done the repair by just taking the front off :-(. Removed the screws holding the front to the sides. Noted the wiring (three wires go to the front door switch). Removed the wires from the switch (they are quick connects, so no tools necessary). Removed the front. Pull the drum out. Disconnected the spring from the idler pulley lever. Removed the bolt and nut holding the idler pulley lever assembly to the bottom. (The old pulley had basically frozen in place which caused the belt to break). Put the new washers, wheel assembly and retaining ring on the new idler pulley lever. Bolted it back in place. Connected the spring. Put the new belt around the drum and slid the drum into place. Put the belt around the motor pulley and past the idler wheel (make sure it is on the correct side so this takes up the tension). Put the bottom screws back in. Connected the wires back up to the front. Put the front in place. (Make sure that the drum is properly seated in back so the front goes on and the drum will turn). Put the front screws back on.
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