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Models > ADE20L2H > Instructions

ADE20L2H Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for ADE20L2H parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the ADE20L2H
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Dry stopped heating - still had good air flow

  • Customer: Brianna from Littleton, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 166 of 191 people found this instruction helpful
I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair.

This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$:
(1) Disconnected power
(2) Opened the top of the dryer
(3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor.
(4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor
(5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element.
(6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element.
(7) Reassembled new element.
(8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.

Worked like a charm!

Dryer squeaking really badly

  • Customer: Michelle from Kirkwood, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 58 of 59 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The wheel had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.

I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.

Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.

It is quiet as can be now!

Dryer would not run

  • Customer: Ron from Rutherfordton, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 43 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged unit, lifted the top cover, removed heater element screw, lifted out element, lifted out thermal fuse bracket. Removed wires from thermal fuse, confirmed was open curcuit at room temperature. Attached wires to thermal fuse, inserted fuse into bracket, slid bracket onto clip on side of box that housed the heater element, reinstalled heater elememt, inserted long screw into heater element hole and tightened snugly. Extra to ensure proper air flow: Then removed wires from door switch on fron panel (labeled them), removed 2 screws at top of from panel, tilted and lifted front panel off, removed blower cover, cleaned all duct work from blower to exit of unit, sealed plastic duct that was attached to front panel. It had loose gaskets that allowed air to be drawn in from the sides and not through the duct thus bypassing the drum and heater element. Reattached blower cover, lowered and tilted front cover into place, reattached top 2 corner screws, reattached switch wires, lowered top. Plugged in and tested.
Note the Partselect sales person told me that the LA-1053 kit contained 3 items, however, it only came with the fuse, not the thermostats. Foutunately, only my fuse was shot.

Dryer would not start. Light for dryer would not burn.

  • Customer: Robert from Oak Hill, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Turn the power off to the dryer. Pushed the two retaining clips that held the top of the dryer to the dryer sides. One on each side of the front. Table knife works really well to do this. Lift the top of the dryer up all the way. You will see the heating elements in the rear center of the dryer. There will be one screw holding the heating elements in place. Once you remove the wires from the heating element and remove the screw the heating element will lift out. Remove the heating elements and set down somewhere they will not get damaged. On the side the screw came out of there will be the heat fuse (as Maytag calls it). Remove the retainer by picking straight up on the retainer and the fuse will come out with the retainer. Remove the wires and replace the fuse and reinstall in reverse order.

Dryer Not Heating

  • Customer: Timothy from Prairieville, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was so easy a sleeping Turtle could do it. You just remove the wiring from the old unit and remember which wire is on which terminal. Easily remove the old unit and replace it. Reattach the wires and you are done! Maytag is a very easy unit to work with. Just remember if you ever have to replace your Terminal Block, don't forget to order the brass nuts to attach the wires. Regular nuts will overheat and cause a fire hazard.

No heat on dry cycle. Thought it might be element.

  • Customer: Thomas from Battleboro, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Opened top of dryer and found high limit thermostat burned in half. Thermostat is located on top of element. Replacement of thermostat took less than 10 minutes, using phillips head screwdriver.

Noisy blower wheel

  • Customer: Daniel from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I first unplugged the unit, unlatched the top cover, removed the wires for the door switch, then removed the two screws securing the front panel. I "propped open" the top lid with a 2 by 4. I then lifted away the front panel, removed the blower housing screws to expose the blower. Then I removed the snap ring on the blower shaft, the clamp holding the blower wheel in place, and slid the blower wheel off the motor shaft. Reassembly was in the reverse order. Was very easy.

Other collector broke and was tearing clothing

  • Customer: Michael from Bloomington, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the top by popping the two fasteners holding it down. Did this with a screw driver. Took two screws out of the front holding collector in place and two screws out holding the front to the two other sides. Put front of dryer down on the floor. Removed old collector and used all other existing material from old collector to finish job. Wife could not believe how quick this was. Put back together was a snap too.

dryer was making a thump sound when drying clothes or when it came to a stop

  • Customer: andrea from west reading, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
My husband and I used a screwdriver to pry open the top of the dryer, then unscrewed the two front corners of it from the inside. Next, we disconnected wires attached to front lid, then pulled the big barrel of the dryer away from the rest of it. We put a new drum roller wheel on the left side and greased the inside perimeter of it. Next, we took off the old cushion set, and stuck on the newer set, and greased drum glide as well. Lastly, we took off the "old" belt, and replaced it with the one we purchased from PartSelect. We forgot how the old one came off the pulley, but after much trial and error, we figured it out in a snap! (this is why this project took us longer than we expected)
In conclusion, this company for parts is wonderful and I have been referring them to all of my friends!

Maytag Performa squeaking loudly when running.

  • Customer: Jason from Temecula, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
My wife's dryer started squeaking very high pitched, intermittently and then continuously when running. It progressed to a loud shrieking, unbearable throughout the house. Make sure you unplug the dryer. First I replaced the Drum glide and cushion kit. This was easy to do. Pry open the top of the dryer open with a screwdrive or putty knife. Now reach in and remove the retaining screws holding the front panel against the side panels. After releasing the front panel, let it fall forward about 4 inches and then unplug the two wire connected to the door closed sensor. Now carefully slide the thin belt towards the back of the dryer, it will release eventually as it is pulled off the pulley (dont worry, getting it back on is not that hard). Now you can remove the drum. After removing the drum, there are two tan or bluse plastic drum glides that the fron of the drum rests on. They can be worn out along with the cushion beneath them. Replace them with new one. This actually did NOT fix the problem. I put everything back together and....SQUEAK!! Next I undid everything as before and removed the drum. Now I decided to lubricate the rear rollers. First I used a silicone lubricant that again did not fix the problem. I could not find hi-temp lubricant, so I decided to use Axle grease. Bingo...no more squeak. To lubricate the rollers, remove the retaining clip and pull the wheel off. I put an even thin coat on the post they rest on and the inside hole of the wheel. Replace them and remember to put the retaining clip back on. Now replace the belt onto the metal pulley first, with the threaded side of the belt down towards the drive shaft, it should loop around the drive shaft and then you can pull it around the drum, slowly feedingthe drum farther and pulling the belt back along the drom. The smooth side of the belt should be on top of the drum. Now you have to reach back under the drum on the bottom right corner below the lint trap and pull the belt over the tensioner. Sounds harder than it is. Volia...that should fix it. Its been 3 days of non-stop laundry since the repair and no squeak. Next time I will purchase the replacement roller package, but this worked for now. Good luck.

pull out lint screen holder broke

  • Customer: steve from madison, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
used a flat blade screw driver to open top up(like a car hood) then removed two screws that held the front panel on. Two more screws held the lint colector part in place. The only problem that I had was that I had to use Elmers white glue to hold the gasket that ran around the lint colector in place.Just a little dab, not enough to soak it.When I took the part out there was about a volleyball's worth of lint in the fan blower. Ordered the part and 2 or three days later I had it. If I need another part I will be back...

No heat from element

  • Customer: Jason from Waukesha, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top cover, unplugged the wires on the element, removed bolt holding the element in place. Replacement took about Fifteen minutes to complete.

dryer had no heat

  • Customer: Michael from Temple, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the dryer and then opened the top by releasing the two clips with a large flathead screwdriver. The heat element tested good with ohm meter but the thermistat was open. Replaced the thermistat and it fixed the problem.

My dryer was still running but the clothes were not drying. Since I didn't know if it was the heating element or the thermostat, I ordered the part that includes both.

  • Customer: Elaine from Hermitage, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
My son actually did the repair when he was over here and said it was so easy, even "Mom" could've done it! He said all he did was unscrew one little screw, life out the old part, drop the new part into that slot and replace the screw! It's the easiest repair I've ever heard of! Thank you....I will definitely order parts from your company in the future. Fast shipping too!!

fusible link repeatedly opened

  • Customer: Stephen from Wayme, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I applied the excellent description of accessing and fixing the drier givenby others. When the second fusible link opened, I consulted the Repair Forum. Denman, an obviously experienced responder, walked me through the diagnostics.

I did not ask denman's permission to pass on his recommendations so they may or may not apply to your situation. Heere

"Here are your parts with a wiring diagram
Maytag YE225LV

With the unit apart and drum/belt removed and thermal fuse wires shorted together the motor should run. You also have to tape or hold the door switch closed. I would also disconnect and tape up one of the wires going to the heater coil as it will overheat. Never leave the thermal fuse shorted as the unit can cause a house fire without it.

Be very careful that everything is well taped up so you do not get a short.
You have 220 volts in the unit which is very dangerous.

The motor should manually turn easily from the pulley end.
The ding from the fan indicates that there is a problem here. Check it carefully.
Here is a good site
Dryer Help Sections, repairing dryers, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Inglis, GE, Frigidaire, White Westinghouse, Magic Chef, Norge, changing a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong cord, no heat, electric dryers, gas dryers, how to take apart my dryer, what can st
Check out the Maytag Dependable Care section / 26 -motor problems / "Check this out" at the bottom of the page

Normally your high limit safety thermostat should open before the thermal fuse blows.
When you ran your test did you run it on fluff (no heat) at first?

I would remove and check the heater for a grounded element.
Depending where it breaks/shorts it can be on high heat all the time with the thermostats having no control of it.
From your description this would be my prime suspect!!"

My observations:

1 the reference above is to applianceaid.com, which had useful tips. Tip #4 was washing the filter screen with detergent, as it holds an invisible layer of residual lint.

3. When cleaning, disconnect front panel, take out filter and clean the cavity behind the filter. I used a garden hose and large volumes of lint came out.

Now I am scheduling full clean out at least annually, including washing screen and inside door.

2. since thermal fuses are designed to open when overheated, it is hard to test if they work or not. (They test continuous at room temperature.)

3. at Denman's subsequent suggestion, I replaced the thermal fuse past the blower. (There is a thermal fuse ahead of the heating elements and the elements heated, so it is a less logical failure candidate.)

System working fine. The help was worth as much as the parts!
All Instructions for the ADE20L2H
1-15 of 106