A883 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The fact that your part was assembled incorrectly made the job more difficult and required installing the part twice. Once after we received the part and once more after we had corrected the faulty assembly. When we received the part the air gap was upside down.

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.

1) I removed two phillips head screws from the top of the control cover plate and placed the screws into a magnetic tray. 2) I then lifted the control cover from the washer exposing the cycle control mechanism. 3) I then traced the wires leading from the timer motor to there attachment points on the cycle control. 4) I then detached the slide on wires from the cycle control mechanism. 5) I then removed two sloted screws from the timer motor; thereby, detaching the timer motor unit from the cycle control mechanism. I placed the two slotted screws in the magnetic screw holder. 6) I then wove the new timer motor wires threw the cycle control mechanism many other wires and attached them to the leads. 7) I then positioned the new timer motor over the drive slot for the cycle control mechanism and replaced the old screws into the new timer. 8) I then set the timer control mechanism to start a new wash cycle in order to test the timer motor. It worked flawlessly. 9) I then replaced the cover and screwed in the cover screws. Repair complete!!!

Once i figured out it would not drain i pulled the front panel off and pulled all the drain hoses off to be sure nothing was clogged there or in the pump itself. It was not so then i checked the drive belt and it was ok. Next i pulled off the drain pump and everything looked to be ok, it was not froze up and it would spin just fine. I got a screwdriver and held the splines inside the pump while trying to turn the pulley and thats when i found that the propeller was spinning on the shaft and under a load would only spin the shaft and not the propeller inside the pump. Got online ordered new pump and it works great now.

I was impressed with the fast time the part was delivered. The price was good too. The installation video and instructions did not match my dryer but it was helpful to some extent. The video and instructions being different was not ya'll's fault because of the age of the dryer. It took me so long to change the switch was because of the location and design of the switch. I got it though.

First checked for clogs or loose/broken belt. Fixed loose belt and tested, not the problem. I then ordered the pump and hose that would not seal after uninstalling. Everything working fine. Very simple repair.

Pulled the washer away from wall and tipped forward, leaning against a chair. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. Removed 1 screw. Pulled the plate off the back of the washer. Removed two screws holding the old valve onto that plate. Took 4 wires off the original valve one at a time and placed the wires one at a time on the new valve, so I didnt have to write down or remember which wire went where. Slid one hose clamp up, pushed the hose off the old valve and placed it on the new valve. Threw the two screws back on the valve and fastened it to the plate. Put the plate back on the back side of the washer with one screw. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new water valve and screwed on the hot and cold water hoses.

I watched the online video that was supplied when I ordered the part and it made all the difference in a successful repair. Thank you for having such a complete solution!

Removed two screws , two more on the valve, loosened the hose clamp. Reassembled the same way

I watched the video and it was just a easy as the video stated. This part was stated as a common problem causing the water leak. I was doubtful after looking at the old part because there were no visible signs of wear, but decided to go along with the guidance and sure enough, it fixed the leak. It was a minor cost and an easy fix.

Remove front cover lower screws(2) with Phillips screwdriver. Remove Upperlid Bolts (left & right side) under top cover , Flip lid Back to access siphon break (rear right corner) Remove drain hose clamp, Remove clamp at bottom of siphon break. Remove (4) screws rear of washer around drain hose elbow. Remove siphon break, reinstall in reverse order. (Make Sure new siphon break washer is installed in siphon break.

Very easy as the water inlet valve is located on the back of the washer and it was a simple matter of shutting off the water, undoing water hoses, undoing water inlet valve which didn't even need to remove the back side of the washer and connecting the new part, water hoses and turning water back on. The hardest part was tipping the washer, my sits on top of the cold air return, and balancing on a milk crate. Very pleased with being able to do my own repair.

Follow the instructions on the various video's. They were all very helpful. Removed all parts (have a small bucket ready). Also, be sure to order all hardware for drain pump. It does not come with any, and depending on the age of your washer, you will need new screws.

I followed the online installation video and it worked perfectly. I am a fan of this site and would recommend it to anyone .

Replaced both belts, just like the video's on you tube. Pulled off the old one's, put the new one's on. Washer runs better then it has in years.