A308S Maytag Washer - Instructions

I got all of my repair information from your website. I started with 'Maytag washer leaks' and found out that, statistically, the rubber injector valve was the first most likely leak source. Then, to check if this was actually the leak, I lifted the top of the machine during the fill cycle, and watched the water spritzing from the housing that enclosed the Rubber Injector Valve. Next, I watched one of your repair videos associated with replacing the valve. Next, I ordered the part from you. When it came, I installed it. The whole process, from beginning to end, was very good.

Removed the old one installed the new one

Replaced the pump. The front panel screws were rusty. I also replaced the belts at the same time. The repair video told me just what to do. I wouldn't have known about the belt tension otherwise.

Everything basically went as planned. Putting the belts on was a breeze, but I had trouble getting on the screws that anchored the pump in. The pulley didn't allow access for a nut driver or socket, even with a universal, there still wasn't enough clearance. I went back and forth between using a screw driver in the end of a socket and using the socket on the end of a tiny breaker bar. It wasn't bad, just took a little patience. Everything works like a champ now.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Watched your viedo, pulled the power plug, pulled the washer away from the wall and tilted back to expose the belts. Rolled the old belts off and put the new ones on. Just be sure to put the correct belt on the pump and agitator drive as they are a bit different. Adjusted the pump belt as described in the inclosed instructions. What was strange was the same instructions was enclosed with the aggiator drive belt which appears to not be adjustable. Once adjusted put washer back in normal position, plugged in power and was ready to go. Seems to work fine now, least no complaints from the wife.

Watch the video on how to open this model washer. Unplug the unit. Remove the front panel. remove the bolts so you can lift the top. Disconnect the bleach tube at the top. Lift the top and hold in place with a stick or broom handle. Locate the air gap unit on filler tube. Unscrew the hose clamp on the inlet side of the air gap. Disconnect the hose and pull out the rubber tube. Fold the edges of the rubber valve off the inner nozzle and remove. Install the nozzle into the new Rubber valve. Reverse process to finish.

I hastily (miss diagnosed) the symptoms by assuming that the Drain Pump was in fault, Ordered the Drain Pump part online on Sunday got it early on Wednesday. Installed the Drain Pump but the timer would not move. So back to drawing board. Got on the phone with the nice people on PartSelect ordered the Lid Switch Assembly. Got the part in less than 20 hours To install the Lid Switch assembly remove the back panel by removing 3 sheet metal screws at the top and 2 at the bottom now you will have access to all the wires and the Lid Switch Assembly. It is attached with one sheet metal screw. The hole in the Assembly is slotted so you may have to slide it back and forth for the switch to get activated when you open the door. Installed the part, plugged the washer machine in filled the tank. The washer machine came alive the timer was moving (the washer machine start working again). This washer machine should be good for another 20 years. By the way this was the first breakdown on this washer machine after 20 years of service. Thanks PartSelect for well trained people and prompt service I couldn't have done it with out your help.

I watched the YouTube video twice and it was just as easy as in the video. No problems. I ran a couple of test loads and it was back working like a champ. My parents had their belt changed by a repair man and it cot them $150 (pretty reasonable). This whole repair cost only $45 and 15 minutes (including the video watching time!). It pays to do the simple things.

I unplugged machine and removed water and clothes. Tipped washer bback to gain acccess to belts, which slipped off and back on quite easily. Put washer back in place, plugged in and continued washing clothes. Simple!

Just as the video described.... Unplugged the machine, turned off the water, both hot and cold. Unhooked the hoses (replaced them at this time since they were over 5 years old). Took out the top screw holding the frame piece and removed from machine. Took off the wires and the output hose. Removed the valve ass'y from the frame piece. Matched new to the original and reassembled in reverse order.

Ordered replacement water inlet valve, switched out within 10 mins and problem solved for less than $50. Maytag design easily allowed for the inlet valve unit to be replaced without accessing interior workings of the washer. The unit is mounted with 3 screws on a removable rear panel where the hot and cold H2O hoses are connected. Very easy! Tested immediately upon completion and was delighted to see that hot, warm and cold water filled the tub extremely fast, the way it worked when purchased new 18 years ago. The web site repair video was key to my success.

Being mechanically inclined, I found this repair pretty straight forward. First, watch the video and keep returning to it to double check yourself. Second, find someone with the spanner wrench, or purchase one. I called a appliance repair shop, and they loaned me one with a refundable deposit. My only compliant is the the out side tub bolts have a rubber washer that is not included with the repair parts kit. Inspect the rubber or find replacements. As the video explains, "TIGHTEN THE NUTS not the BOLTS", this will keep the old rubber washers from twisting. Recommend replacing your transmission shaft bearing and wash tub seal at the same time, If you can afford them.

Just tilt the washing machine, take out the old and put back the the one its so easy. You don't have take out anything.