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Models > A23CT > Instructions

A23CT Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A23CT parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A23CT
1-15 of 416
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water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub

  • Customer: douglas from bonita springs, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 457 of 467 people found this instruction helpful
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag washers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.

Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun

  • Customer: Charles from Whitman, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 332 of 174 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.

Cold water valve only opened to a trickle

  • Customer: Brian from El Cajon, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 196 of 206 people found this instruction helpful
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outlet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.

Front load washing machine leaking on floor while in fill mode.

  • Customer: Catherine from Wyandotte, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 131 of 137 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel and then removed front panel. Then removed two self-tapping bolts (one on each side) holding top panel in place and swung the panel up, out of the way, to expose top of tub and water injection components. Cut off one pinch clamp and loosened screw clamp holding two injector hoses to the injector sleeve. Removed these water injector hoses from injector sleeve assembly which is mounted on top of left side panel upper flange. Replaced deteriorated rubber injector valve, nozzle and the sleeve for the injector (plastic housing containing the injector valve and nozzle). Also replaced deteriorated injector tube seal where injector tube elbow mounts to top of tub assembly. Reinstalled injector hoses with a replacement screw clamp to replace the one cut off. tightened the new clamp and the other, original, screw clamp and checked for leaks. This solved the leakage problem. Secured top panel and re-installed front panel. Hardest part of the task was determining where the leak emanated from but once found and parts ordered, it was a relative snap to fix.

Damper pads wore-out and had metal to metal contact which caused the washer to spin out of balance.

  • Customer: Steven from Rockford, MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 127 of 146 people found this instruction helpful
1: Disconnected all water and electrical connections.
2: Removed front panel.
3: Disconnected all wires leading from the control panel and removed the top of the washer.
4: Removed the springs that holds the drum down on the damper pads.
5: Flipped washer upside-down so the drum would hang from the bottom of the wash. This made it easy to clean the area since it was full of dirt and ground metal dust.
6: Glued new pads (per the instructions) to the cone that protrudes up from the bottom of the washer and allowed to dry.
7: Lubricated the pads with the provided grease and added additional silicon grease to insure smooth operation.
8: Replaced drive belt.
9: Flipped the washer back up-right and installed the drum springs.
10: Reconnected all wires and attached the top of the washer.
11: Reconnected all electrical and water lines and tested operation.
12: Replaced the front panel.

Washer now runs as quite and smooth as it did when it was new.

washer would not start

  • Customer: Peter from Westbury, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 115 of 144 people found this instruction helpful
To see if the lid switch was the problem I first jumped it out and tried to start the washer. That was the problem. I removed the main controll so I could get to the lid switch. I made the mistake of removing the screws all the way out and the metal clip fell into the body of the washer, no problem since I was changing the drive beld anyway. I realized that you do not remove the screws all the way out, you just have to loosen them and then slide out the lid switch & then replace it.

Clothes would come out of the spin cycle still wet

  • Customer: William from Cary, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 86 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
First found out where the belts were by tipping the machine backwards and saw that the belts were intact but extremely loose. Ordered two belts (Drive and Pump) . Re-tipped the machine and in less than three minutes, had installed the new belts. I re-hooked the hoses to the back and the machine operated as if new.

washer stopped spinng

  • Customer: David from Hartford, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 94 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
I replace the belts - 5 min
I tried to replace the glides...I couldn't figure out how to do that..I took out the motor and and the glide mechanism...but I could not get glide braket separate from the motor mount..so i did not do this
I replace the springs and added 1 extra sping...3 instead of 2..it worked

The belts were not staying tight enough to agitate properly.

  • Customer: dominic from weirton, WV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 58 of 63 people found this instruction helpful
Firstly, remove ac power from washer!
After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old
springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better!

Washer wouldn't spin

  • Customer: Ben from Truro, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 74 of 125 people found this instruction helpful
My washer stopped spinning, even though I could hear the motor running. I did some research and found out there was two belts, opened mine up and it was broken. I replaced the belt in five minutes, start to finish. Now it's running like new.

For several years the washer has moaned and groaned while filling, and filled slower than when new. It seemed to be associated with the inlet water valves. Then, it began to leak water from time to time, with the frequency and amount increasing.

  • Customer: David from Macungie, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 47 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
I thought I had only a water valve problem - both the noise and leak seemed to come from the water valve assembly - but I had two. After replaced the water valve (a job which was easy to do as the assembly was easily accessed from the rear of the machine) the moaning stopped but I was surprised to discover that I had a stream of water pouring from under the machine.

I pulled the front panel (two phillips head screws needed to be removed) and raised opened the top assembly after removing two hex screws. (The diagram on PartSelect.com was helpful in understanding what I had to deal with).

I observed the fill action, and found that the water was leaking from the slots in the fill nozzle sleeve, in the water injector hose line. (The new inlet water valves had increased the pressure at the fill nozzle and increased the leak from that point which I had not suspected to be the source of the leaking water).

The basic problem was that the rubber valve sleeve had shrunk in length and was no longer flexible, allowing water to come out of the sleeve slots. I ordered an injector nozzle and valve and installed them in the original sleeve bracket in just a few minutes (two clamps had to be loosened, and the hose sections pulled back to insert the valve and nozzle assembly). (I had also ordered a replacement bracket just in case the old one might break, but it was not the correct part and the old one was fine.)

I checked for leaks and closed up the machine. Problems solved! It is now both quiet and leak-free.

(Moral, open the machine and check the nozzle for leaks - even if you suspect only the water valve assembly. The nozzle valve is located above the water valve and its leaks drop onto the water valve, making it look like the water valve assembly is the source of the leak.)

leaked water when agitating in wash cycle

  • Customer: Jonathan from Lavonia, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 44 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the side panels on at the bottom, then I removed the screws that held the front panel on and removed the panel. I removed the agitator, loosened the retaining nut with a hammer and a punch, removed the bolts holding the tub springs, removed the bolts for the top panel and flipped it out of the way. Then I removed the clamp for the inner tub and pulled it out, then I pulled the outer tub out. Then I removed the seal and scrubbed the rust off the seal mating area, then installed the new seal and re-assembled the washer. It works perfectly now and no longer leaks and it is over 20 years old. This is the first bit of problem we have had out of this machine, the lonely Maytag repairman commercials are true.

Water was not being removed from the wash tub after the spin cycle

  • Customer: John from Fort Lauderdale, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 43 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
I loosened three screws to relieve the belt tension and removed the belt from the pump drive pulley. After removing the water from the wash tub I removed the intake and output hoses from the pump. I next removed the mounting screws and removed the pump. I attached the new pump loosely and re-attached the belt. I moved the pump to tighten the belt tension and tightened the mounting screws. I re-attached the hoses, filled with water, checked for leaks and replaced the front panel.

Cold water solinoid not opening properly

  • Customer: Erich from EastHampton, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 35 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
I moved wash machine away from wall and unplugged from wall outlet. Shut off water, then removed hot and cold water lines from water inlet valve,removed screw from mounting plate and removed valve from wash machine. Checked to see if replacement valve was compatible (exact fit).
Unscrewed the two screws holding valve to mounting plate,unscrewed hose clamp and removed water line at top of valve (outlet). Removed the four wires from solinoids.Replaced the four wires onto the new valve as they were on the old valve,reattached water line onto the top of valve and tightened.Reattached valve to mount plate with the two screws and mounted back onto machine. Hooked up hot and cold water lines back onto valve and snugged with pliers. Turned on water checked for leaks (no leaks), and did a load of laundry. Super simple,well worth doing yourself.

Stuck bushing on agitator.

  • Customer: Matthew from Benson, VT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 34 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
This was a pretty simple repair. In this case, the part purchased here was not the actual problem, but had to be disturbed to fix another problem. After many years, corrosion and exhaustion of grease caused the bushing on the agitator shaft to seize, and the belts to slip. In this model machine, the bushing is accessed by first removing the agitator, which is held on by a single 1/4 inch set screw, and then removing the agitator seal, which is held in by a little spring clip on top of a washer. It's soft rubber, and you will probably need a small screwdriver or pocket knife to pry it out. In this case, the bushing was not too bad, so I was able to clean the hardened grease out and free it up with a little oil, using vise grips to rotate the agitator shaft, until the oil worked in enough.

Since seals don't like to be disturbed and reinstalled, and this one requires some prying to get out, I bought a new seal, even though the old one did not leak when I temporarily reinstalled it. There is a spring inside the seal, and it is packed with grease. The new seal comes with the spring and the grease already in it, so all that is needed is to slip it over the shaft (the top has some print embossed on it, making it easy to remember which is the top), press the washer down on top of it, and replace the spring clip.Slip the agitator back on its shaft and retighten the set screw, and you're back in business.

Run the machine, and check the area where the transmission enters the bottom of the tub. There's a little weep hole there, and if the seal leaks, you'll see water coming out there.
All Instructions for the A23CT
1-15 of 416