A23CSL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Everything basically went as planned. Putting the belts on was a breeze, but I had trouble getting on the screws that anchored the pump in. The pulley didn't allow access for a nut driver or socket, even with a universal, there still wasn't enough clearance. I went back and forth between using a screw driver in the end of a socket and using the socket on the end of a tiny breaker bar. It wasn't bad, just took a little patience. Everything works like a champ now.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Watched your viedo, pulled the power plug, pulled the washer away from the wall and tilted back to expose the belts. Rolled the old belts off and put the new ones on. Just be sure to put the correct belt on the pump and agitator drive as they are a bit different. Adjusted the pump belt as described in the inclosed instructions. What was strange was the same instructions was enclosed with the aggiator drive belt which appears to not be adjustable. Once adjusted put washer back in normal position, plugged in power and was ready to go. Seems to work fine now, least no complaints from the wife.

Watch the video on how to open this model washer. Unplug the unit. Remove the front panel. remove the bolts so you can lift the top. Disconnect the bleach tube at the top. Lift the top and hold in place with a stick or broom handle. Locate the air gap unit on filler tube. Unscrew the hose clamp on the inlet side of the air gap. Disconnect the hose and pull out the rubber tube. Fold the edges of the rubber valve off the inner nozzle and remove. Install the nozzle into the new Rubber valve. Reverse process to finish.

I hastily (miss diagnosed) the symptoms by assuming that the Drain Pump was in fault, Ordered the Drain Pump part online on Sunday got it early on Wednesday. Installed the Drain Pump but the timer would not move. So back to drawing board. Got on the phone with the nice people on PartSelect ordered the Lid Switch Assembly. Got the part in less than 20 hours To install the Lid Switch assembly remove the back panel by removing 3 sheet metal screws at the top and 2 at the bottom now you will have access to all the wires and the Lid Switch Assembly. It is attached with one sheet metal screw. The hole in the Assembly is slotted so you may have to slide it back and forth for the switch to get activated when you open the door. Installed the part, plugged the washer machine in filled the tank. The washer machine came alive the timer was moving (the washer machine start working again). This washer machine should be good for another 20 years. By the way this was the first breakdown on this washer machine after 20 years of service. Thanks PartSelect for well trained people and prompt service I couldn't have done it with out your help.

After unpluging cord and disconnecting hoses, I layed the washer over on its front. I simply rolled both belts off their pulleys and installed the new ones. This was easier than I thought! I gave a turn or two on both sets of pulleys to make sure something wasn't preventing the pulleys from rotating properly and all seemed to move okay. After reconnecting everything and doing a test run, I discovered that the transmission was not moving as it should and the belt was still binding. Turned out the 25+ year old transmission finally gave up! I doubt if any new washer I buy will last half that long

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

I suspected the pump, so, once I removed it, it was obvious that the shaft from the pump pulley to the impeller was broken (the pulley turned, but the impeller was not turning).I ordered a genuine "Maytag" pump from Parts Select, even though it cost me twice as much as other pumps advertised on Amazon.com. Why fool around? While I was at it, I also ordered 2 new belts from Parts Select, even though the belts on the machine looked OK. But heck, the old belts were 26 years old! What a great machine this old Maytag! This is the first time in 26 years that it failed me...The only reason I looked at the Parts Select repair video was to know what tension to put on the pump belt...BTW, I ordered the parts on the weekend, and they were sitting on my front porch Tuesday, early morning. Impressive..

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

I tried to get an appointment with our local appliance repair company, but they cancelled and wouldn't reschedule at a convenient time, so I decided to do it myself. Determined that the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit was the needed part and ordered it here. Also had to order the specialty spanner wrench from another website. Parts were delivered in a timely manner. The online video was very helpful and the removal and replacement of the defective part went smoothly. The only problem with the actual repair was with removing the old tub seal gasket -- it took quite a bit of coaxing to get it free. The new parts went in with no problems. However, we have an older model than the one shown in the video -- it has the metal tub top cover with the rubber gasket and ring clamp. This cover is tricky to replace properly. It has to be at just the right height to avoid interference with the spinning inner tub (too low) or with the washer lid (too high). You also have to make sure that the rubber gasket it not twisted or crimped by the ring clamp. It took me three tries to get this just right. After that, everything worked fine and the leak is fixed.

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.

Removed washing Machine Cover. Removed old belts and then old pump. Installed New pump and then the new belts. Cleaned and vacuumed inside of washing Machine. Replaced cover. Hooked up hoses and ran the washer. Every thing worked great and water was pumped out of the washing Machine leaving the cloths spun dry and clean. Really easy job to do.

Emptied washing machine tub with a small plastic bowl into a 5 gallon bucket, finihsing up last bit of water by soaking it up with towels. I next removed front panel on washing machine by unscrewing two screws on the bottom front, left and right, to gain access to the pump. Loosened two hose clamps and detached two hoses, catching remining water from washertub. moved washer out from wall about 3 feet and tilted washer back towards wall so I could access the inderneath of washer to lossen three bolts that held pump in place. removed belt from pum to motor and examined fro glaze or wear (none detected) and then removed pum and reversed steps to install new pump, reinstalling belt faily loosly, per instructions. Tried washer to see if ssue resolved and once confirmed, replaced the front panel. Have done multiple washes since then (at least 10) and no further issues. Very economical solution (under $100) and sense of pride with fixing applianmce myself. This web page was very informative and saved me a lot of money and time. Thanks!

I followed the instructions from the video on the site. It went more difficult than the video showed but it was due to the washer. The instructions were very good. The only really difficult step was taking the bearing sleeve off of the transmission shaft. I ended up with a Dremmel tool and cutting it off. It only took 5 minutes, if that long. The washer has run very well since the repair.