Models > A103S > Instructions

A103S Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A103S parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A103S
46-60 of 173
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water kept filling until overflow

  • Customer: Michael from Woodside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
removed back of control panel to find that a mouse chewed the air tube. tried to splice it with a barb connector, it did not work. Ordered part received it 2 days later and installed it. I would recommend buying parts from these folks!

tub leaked

  • Customer: Fritz from Redway CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

The plunger was worn down. Washer would shut off during the washing cycle.

  • Customer: John from Coal Valley IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I started by unplugging the washing machine from the wall outlet. I then proceded to remove four screws from the top of the control panel. After removing the screws I put two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the lid and applied force to pry the lid from the ball joints holding it in place. This was the part that was the most difficult in my opinion. After the lid was off, I removed the bolt that was holding the fuse switch in place and removed that from the slots. Next I unscrewed the two screws on opposite sides of the switch head where it makes the contact with the lid. This allows you to remove the switch assembly out of the unit. Once the assembly was out, I assembled pieced the new parts together by looking at the old parts. Then, I placed the new assembly back in the unit. Be careful when you put in the new assembly that you test the switch and make sure you hear the "Click" from the switch. After that I reversed all the steps and put the unit back together.

WASHER LEAKED WATER FROM BOTTOM SEAL

  • Customer: JACLYN from RICE LAKE WI
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED WASHER TUBS INNER AND OUTER
NUT (PART # 10 ) ON INNER WAS HARD TO REMOVE AND IS A REVERSE THREAD USED HAMMER TO LOOSEN ONCE OFF REMOVED 1ST TUB - THEN REMOVED SET SCREW #17 AND THEN UNSCREWED MOUNTING S ITEM #29 THIS AGAIN REQUIRED SOME HAMMER TAPPING TO LOOSEN - ONCE OFF USED FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER TO PRY & REMOVE THE RUBBER PIECE ON BOTTOM OF OUTER OR 2ND TUB -BUT KEEP GOING AS THE LEAK WILL PROBABLY BE FROM PART #20 TUB BEARING ( THIS WILL SAVE YOU THE TIME TO TEST AND FIND OUT IT STILL LEAKS AND HAVE TO TAKE APART AGAIN AFTER ONLY REPLACING #29 REMOVED 3 BOLTS HOLDING TUB - DISCONNECTED HOSES AND REMOVED 2ND TUB - USED RUBBER HAMMER TO KNOCK OUT AND INSTALL #20 TUB BEARING - REASEMBLED AND WOW NO LEAKS TO COST ABOUT $120 - TIME WORKED ON 3 HRS - ONLY BECAUSE TOOK APART 2 TIMES - DOWN TIME ON WASHER 10 DAYS AS WE DIDN'T ORDER ALL PARTS TO START WITH NO BEER NEEDED BUT DID ENJOY A NICE RED WINE - GOOD LUCK

A chirping sound or squeak during the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Jim from WI WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I used a 1/4 inch socket to remove the agitator.Used a small screw driver to remove clip. Then I lifted the washer off the shaft with a magnet. Pried out the old seal with a screwdriver. This exposes the top of the tub bearing. I applied some 80-90 differential grease to the top of the bearing, pressed in new seal, installed other parts and noise gone. It sounds like a new washer. I'm glad I found you guys.

Leak from tub and burning smell when initiating spin.

  • Customer: Scott from Hinkle KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!

REPAIRS WERE EASY.

  • Customer: James from Ventura CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED TOP. REMOVED AGITATOR AND TUBS . REPLACED SEALS AND REASSEMBLED.

Leaking Water Pump

  • Customer: Edwin from Eagar, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.

Standing water in washer tub

  • Customer: James from Baton Rouge LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

Washing Machine Tub would not drain

  • Customer: CHRISTOPHER from BOCA RATON FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I determined that the belt for the pump had fallen off because the drive belt was worn (and inverted) and a piece was hanging off and causing the pump belt to slip off the motor. I replaced the belt for the pump (Temporarily) to allow the tub to drain.

I replaced both belts with new belts and returned the front panel. The process took 15 minutes due to the necessity of explaining the proper use of tools to a neighbor child and allowing him to assist (required for the completion of one of his Cub Scout requirements).

slow leak at bottom of unit.

  • Customer: alex from ogden UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

Busted Pump

  • Customer: Brena from Seaside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

Worn belts

  • Customer: Ronald from Birmingham MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

Water leaking when washing machine was filling

  • Customer: marc from vancouver WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
After ruling out leaks in the hoses, pumps, tanks, and other connections, I set the machine to start filling while I had the top open. Immediately, it was obvious the water was coming out from the injector valve (located at the top of the machine, between the water inlet mixing valve and the washing tank).

After taking this part off and disassembling, I realized that the neoprene inner part was not salvageable. (I tried cleaning off the accumulated scale and reassembling, but the rubber was too old and stiff, and no longer worked as designed.)

I considered just replacing the valve assembly, but when I saw that the price to purchase hoses as well was only slightly more, I decided to go ahead and do the full job.

The actual repair consisted of removing a couple hose clamps, sliding the new parts into place, and putting the covers back on the machine. Less than 1/2 hour.

There are two phillips head screws near the bottom of the front cover panel to remove, then two hex head screws up near the top of the machine (inside) to release the top cover from the frame. The top then tips up to reveal the inlet hoses.

At that point, the rest of the procedure is obvious. Remove the hose clamps and pull off the old hoses; install the new parts; replace the covers on washing machine.

Don't force anything into place. If you have to push that hard, chances are something is not in the right position. There is plenty of room for the parts if they are installed correctly.

Hint: use a drop of liquid hand soap to lubricate the inside of the hoses prior to pushing them onto the fittings. It makes them slide right on and saves a lot of frustration. Any excess soap will flush through on the first load and become part of the wash cycle.

water leaking

  • Customer: Stacey from Philadelphia PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
opened washer removed old damaged part and replaced with new part, losen brackets from hose inlet, removed hose, then fit new hose into tub groves can be very frustrating take your time and be patient, once you get it on, fit over inlet, tighten brackets make sure that seal is secure by turning on the water to fill if no leak the job is done run thru complete cycle to test. Thanks
All Instructions for the A103S
46-60 of 173