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A103S Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A103S parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A103S
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washer was leaking

  • Customer: jason from euless TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.

Water leak

  • Customer: richard from Tarzana CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

belt was slipping

  • Customer: ROBERT from MORGAN CITY LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The job went fast an well

Washing machine lid hinge balls fell off machine lid

  • Customer: Sandra L from Warren OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

The plunger was worn down. Washer would shut off during the washing cycle.

  • Customer: John from Coal Valley IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I started by unplugging the washing machine from the wall outlet. I then proceded to remove four screws from the top of the control panel. After removing the screws I put two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the lid and applied force to pry the lid from the ball joints holding it in place. This was the part that was the most difficult in my opinion. After the lid was off, I removed the bolt that was holding the fuse switch in place and removed that from the slots. Next I unscrewed the two screws on opposite sides of the switch head where it makes the contact with the lid. This allows you to remove the switch assembly out of the unit. Once the assembly was out, I assembled pieced the new parts together by looking at the old parts. Then, I placed the new assembly back in the unit. Be careful when you put in the new assembly that you test the switch and make sure you hear the "Click" from the switch. After that I reversed all the steps and put the unit back together.

Washer did not drain.

  • Customer: Basil from St. Charles MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer

  • Customer: Rebecca from Wylie TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

tub leaked

  • Customer: Fritz from Redway CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

Water Leaking from underneath washer

  • Customer: Rocco from Kenvil NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
For the most part, I followed the excellent repair advice already available on this site for installing these parts. Especially useful was the caution that the threaded pieces had "left hand" threads and to loosen them they had to be turned in a "CLOCK WISE" direction. My washer is 9 years old and due to calcium deposits on the threads, I did have some trouble with loosening the large retaining nut. I first soaked the nut for a few hours with a rag soaked with white vinegar. This removed some of the calcium but I still was unable to undo the nut. Finally, I soaked the nut overnight with penetrating oil and WD-40. The next morning I was able to loosen it using a drift punch and medium sized ball peen hammer. I only had one difficulty. Maybe it wasn't necessary to do so, but I wanted the rubber boot seal to be seated pretty close to the surface of the inner basket. This turned out to require more downward force than I would have expected even though I installed it dry, without use of any type of lubricant or soapy solution. Now, two weeks worth of washing and not a drop of water seen underneath the washer.

Leaking near one of the seal clamps

  • Customer: JIM from PINE RIVER MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Thoroughly cleaned the edges to be sealed with a wire brush and sand paper. shimmed the top piece with 1/4 inch plywood strips. seated the top piece with the seal attached and worked the seal down into place. Positioned the seal clamp, carefully, and tightened the clamp screws. Replacing the seal did the trick, even though the old seal did not look to be in bad shape.

washer was leaking when water level got about 4 inches in tub

  • Customer: Brian from Bush LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It was fairly easy, start out by using a screwdriver and push down and out on the front cover and remove it. Take out the 2 small bolts that hold the top cover down to the sides and lift the top cover up and lean it back out of your way. On the bottom side of the agitator there is a small bolt that holds it down, loosen that bolt and pull the agitator out. The hardest part of the entire jod was to use a small chisel and hammer to take off the nut that holds the assembly down.Remember it has reverse threads,you have to use a chisel to back it off and use some WD40 to help remove the calsium build up that is around it. Once you get that large nut off, there is a set screw on the side of the assembly that you have to loosen up before you can take it off, it's a "star driver" head and not a allen wrench set screw.Just take your time and look at your new part and compare it with the old one and take your time and remember how you take the old part off,and you will not have any problem putting the new one on. This was the first time I ever worked on a washing machine, and by checking out the parts first and comparing everything,even someone that might not have much mechanical skills can change this out. My washer works fine and not a drop of water leaks anymore.One thing I did learn, if you change this part out and put it back together and try it out and it makes a funny sound and you smell something like its burning, you might did what I did. I thought I had it to tight, but I put the large nut on before I put the tub back on!!! The agitator was holding the tub down, but it could not spin in spin cycle.... Good luck with you repairs, you can do it.

Leaking from under tub

  • Customer: Reece from Joplin MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

A chirping sound or squeak during the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Jim from WI WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I used a 1/4 inch socket to remove the agitator.Used a small screw driver to remove clip. Then I lifted the washer off the shaft with a magnet. Pried out the old seal with a screwdriver. This exposes the top of the tub bearing. I applied some 80-90 differential grease to the top of the bearing, pressed in new seal, installed other parts and noise gone. It sounds like a new washer. I'm glad I found you guys.

Leak from tub and burning smell when initiating spin.

  • Customer: Scott from Hinkle KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!

Main drive belt worn

  • Customer: Stephan from Yonkers NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!
All Instructions for the A103S
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