A100S - Instructions

It was simple! The range looks so much better!

I tried to get an appointment with our local appliance repair company, but they cancelled and wouldn't reschedule at a convenient time, so I decided to do it myself. Determined that the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit was the needed part and ordered it here. Also had to order the specialty spanner wrench from another website. Parts were delivered in a timely manner. The online video was very helpful and the removal and replacement of the defective part went smoothly. The only problem with the actual repair was with removing the old tub seal gasket -- it took quite a bit of coaxing to get it free. The new parts went in with no problems. However, we have an older model than the one shown in the video -- it has the metal tub top cover with the rubber gasket and ring clamp. This cover is tricky to replace properly. It has to be at just the right height to avoid interference with the spinning inner tub (too low) or with the washer lid (too high). You also have to make sure that the rubber gasket it not twisted or crimped by the ring clamp. It took me three tries to get this just right. After that, everything worked fine and the leak is fixed.

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

I hastily (miss diagnosed) the symptoms by assuming that the Drain Pump was in fault, Ordered the Drain Pump part online on Sunday got it early on Wednesday. Installed the Drain Pump but the timer would not move. So back to drawing board. Got on the phone with the nice people on PartSelect ordered the Lid Switch Assembly. Got the part in less than 20 hours To install the Lid Switch assembly remove the back panel by removing 3 sheet metal screws at the top and 2 at the bottom now you will have access to all the wires and the Lid Switch Assembly. It is attached with one sheet metal screw. The hole in the Assembly is slotted so you may have to slide it back and forth for the switch to get activated when you open the door. Installed the part, plugged the washer machine in filled the tank. The washer machine came alive the timer was moving (the washer machine start working again). This washer machine should be good for another 20 years. By the way this was the first breakdown on this washer machine after 20 years of service. Thanks PartSelect for well trained people and prompt service I couldn't have done it with out your help.

Replaced the pump. The front panel screws were rusty. I also replaced the belts at the same time. The repair video told me just what to do. I wouldn't have known about the belt tension otherwise.

Everything basically went as planned. Putting the belts on was a breeze, but I had trouble getting on the screws that anchored the pump in. The pulley didn't allow access for a nut driver or socket, even with a universal, there still wasn't enough clearance. I went back and forth between using a screw driver in the end of a socket and using the socket on the end of a tiny breaker bar. It wasn't bad, just took a little patience. Everything works like a champ now.

Watched your viedo, pulled the power plug, pulled the washer away from the wall and tilted back to expose the belts. Rolled the old belts off and put the new ones on. Just be sure to put the correct belt on the pump and agitator drive as they are a bit different. Adjusted the pump belt as described in the inclosed instructions. What was strange was the same instructions was enclosed with the aggiator drive belt which appears to not be adjustable. Once adjusted put washer back in normal position, plugged in power and was ready to go. Seems to work fine now, least no complaints from the wife.

I watched the YouTube video twice and it was just as easy as in the video. No problems. I ran a couple of test loads and it was back working like a champ. My parents had their belt changed by a repair man and it cot them $150 (pretty reasonable). This whole repair cost only $45 and 15 minutes (including the video watching time!). It pays to do the simple things.

I unplugged machine and removed water and clothes. Tipped washer bback to gain acccess to belts, which slipped off and back on quite easily. Put washer back in place, plugged in and continued washing clothes. Simple!

Being mechanically inclined, I found this repair pretty straight forward. First, watch the video and keep returning to it to double check yourself. Second, find someone with the spanner wrench, or purchase one. I called a appliance repair shop, and they loaned me one with a refundable deposit. My only compliant is the the out side tub bolts have a rubber washer that is not included with the repair parts kit. Inspect the rubber or find replacements. As the video explains, "TIGHTEN THE NUTS not the BOLTS", this will keep the old rubber washers from twisting. Recommend replacing your transmission shaft bearing and wash tub seal at the same time, If you can afford them.

Just tilt the washing machine, take out the old and put back the the one its so easy. You don't have take out anything.

I followed the video provided. The video was very clear and helpful.

took out the screws replaced the cartridge top, replaced the screws

followed video from your website. Nut does not come off as easy as your video shows.

dissembled the burner, remove the broken blocpk and bad spade.rewiered and assembled the burner.