7MMGE9959TW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Pulled the old one out, took the duck tape off (haha) and snapped, pushed the new one on. Piece of cake. I then noticed that this is a movable door ,and ther was the same part on the other side, oh well now I still have a spair.

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

First I purchased the heating element, still no heat. Then I purchased the thermal fuse,still no heat. I have been pleased with the prompt shipment of the parts and the parts arrived safe. Thank you for service and time, not sure what to do now.I will recommend PartSelect to friends.

I watched your video on how to replace the fuse.Wow it was a lot easier than I thought.I would highly reccomend anyone to watch the video before even trying to do any repairs.The dryer is working like a new one.By doing it myself saved me a lot of money.Thank you

Followed the repair tests followed in repairman's sheet found taped behind front lower panel. When into diagnostic mode (found on paper) and tested the top front control panel buttons. All checked out fine except when I opened the door it beeped and showed a 4E code. So per the paper Tested the Moisture sensors (two metal strips inside of dryer where lint screen is) test passed, only three things left for this issue per the manual. Wire harness from two metal strips, longer wires going up from that harness to electronic control board , and the ECB itself(found under top lid of dryer). Since did not have a meter, Replaced the lower wire harness first - no improvement. replaced ECB - works perfectly now. Saved $$$ vs a new dryer.

Replaced Lint Screen

The repair went very smooth. I was able to follow the directions on partselect and had the repair done in 15 minutes. I took extra time to test the continuity on the ignitor and fuses. I also used the shop vac to clean out the inside of the dryer. The best part I liked about this web-site is the fact that once I described the problem I was told that the "M" series style coil was the fix 90% of the time! $27.70 including shipping was all it cost to make my clothes dryer work like it did the first day we got it!!

Wouldn't have had a clue how to gain access to the coils without online instructions. It actually took longer to open the front of the unit than it did to replace the parts. Following the online instructions I removed two screws under the lint trap door. I then used a stiff putty knife under the left and right front corners of the lid to release the top, which I tilted back. Per the instructions I easily located the two screws releasing the front of the dryer. You have to lift the drum a bit to release the front panel. Once removed I was able to remove and replace the failing coils and then reversing the steps to put it all back together. An easy job and the dryer is back in shape.

Replaced Thermal Fuse

Your website was wonderful--thank you so much! When I saw that 47% of the time this was the problem, I ordered it & it worked! This was a life saver for me! I will come back to this site anytime I have an appliance problem! Thanks again!

All went very easily

unscrewed the 2 screws holding the coil's in place took wires off one coil at a time tested coils with ohm meter found the two wire coil was bad replaced and scered the bracket that holds the coils back in place.PartSelect gave me a list of what was causing the problem and what the % of what was the cause,this helped alot Thankyou PartSelect

very easy had to do some rewirng.who ever had it before me bypassed the fuse and several other things.

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

Took screwdriver popped out old latch in cabnet. Took pliers popped out latch out of door. Snaped new latch parts back in.