An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
It was simply a matter of removing the old filter housing unit by unscrewing 3 screws and unplugging the two water tubes. After re-insterting the water tubing and securing the housing unit "VOILA" good as new..It really was easy..
The first step was to go to PartSelect.com to find where the filter is located because that is not revealed in Whirlpool's Guide. This refrigerator came with the home I had just puchased so Iwas unfamiliar with the filter replacement. Th filter is on the grill at the bottom of the refrigerator. I followed the instructions helpfully printed on the replacement cartridge box which arrived in less than the 3-5 days acknowledged on my order.
Turn the filter handle 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Don't be timid. It was very tight (probably had not been replaced ever). Remove the filter from the handle that protrudes through the grill at the bottom of the front of the refrigerator.
Insert the new cartridge into the filter handle insert snugly until it goes no further and turn 1/4 clockwise.
The instructions on the replacement cartridge tell you to run the water for 5 minutes to remove air and sediment from the system. DO NOT skip this step. I was. I discovered a large amount of sediment after even three minutes of flushing. A 5-gallon pale will help. And don't forget to turn off the ice maker while you are flushing. Otherwise you will end up with ice cubes everywhere as you try to position the bucket under the water dispenser.
Replaced the door cam on bottom of fridge door. ONE THING TO UNDERSTAND- THERE ARE 2 CAMS ON THE DOOR, LOWER AND UPPER, BUT THE UPPER CAM IS NOT LISTED ON THE "DOOR HARDWARE" DRAWING, ITS LISTED ON THE MAIN BODY DRAWING! BE SURE TO GET BOTH CAMS! (PARTSELECT COULD MAKE A NOTE THAT WHEN PEOPLE LOOK UP LOWER CAM, PUT A NOTE IN THERE SAYING Y0U NEED UPPER TOO!)So I had to order the upper cam later and install later. BUT it is quite easy to replace, unlike the video, I only needed 1 tool! The nut driver (electric screwdriver w nut driver head). Thanks -RF
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
If you remove the bottom vent panel of the refrigerator there are two schematics for the refrigerator. One for the fridge and one for the icemaker. The icemaker has an emitter and a receiver that will tell the icemaker when it is ok to dump ice and add water. The receiver has an LED that blinks different codes. The codes give you an idea where your problem is located. In my case it coded out to be the optics (emitter and receiver). Replacement of the parts involves the removal of three screws on each component and disconnecting a wire harness on each component. Install the new components by following the removal process in reverse. The total cost was $80.00. This was half the price Sears wanted for the parts and about the same price to have a Sears repairman just show up at the house.
Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good
Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week. -James
Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.
Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.
Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did not have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)
I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)
I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.
I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.
You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.
I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.
Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.
I removed the old tracks and installed the new ones. There were small round protrusions on the new tracks that prevented me from sliding them into the brackets in the refrigerator so, I filed them down with a fingernail file and then they slid right into place.
One finger of the spring steel peice that holds the ice maker and water dispenser levers out broke.
I removed the screw holding the spring steel retainer/clip using a quarter inch ratchet wrench a swivel with a quarter inch socket and a short extention, then just installed the new one. This spring steal through the door ice maker / water despenser lever spring was an easy fix. I found you by googling appliance repair parts, and found your site really easy to use. I couldn't believe how fast the part came and the very reasonable price. I put you on my web browser's favorites. Thanks, Ron
First removed the outside cover plate which was some what scary not to break plastic cover. Had read about another discription of removal of cover to start from the bottom because the top is inserted in slots that would have broken if removed from the top. After cover plate removed it was simple to remove the broken parts and install the new parts. The most difficult part to put back in was the spring and rod had to be inserted the same time.
