40441 - Instructions

Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.

I shut the water off, unplugged the machine, and had to scoop the water out of the drum. When I opened the drain filter, about another half gallon of water came out. There are two screws that hold on each clip that secures the top. They are hard to see if you have a cramped laundry room and can't see behind the machine. The top slides back about 1-2 inches and lifts up, it can be tough to get it started. The rest of the machine came apart easily, just go slow and look for more screws if it does not come apart. I pried on the band that secures door near the spring to keep from distorting it. The website video was pretty good. The pump assembly has to come out the machine to replace it, the use a 10MM socket. Be careful not to over tighten when you reinstall. They are threading back into plastic. A long set of needle nose pliers works well for the clamps on the 3 hoses. Be sure to get all wiring back into it holders or vibration could cause grounding or shorting issues. I took some time to clear the small drain that is in the door seal. It was clogged with debris. The band was the most difficult thing to put back on. Start at the top. I used a flat screwdriver to help, but be careful not to poke a hole in the seal.

First shut off the Power and Water to Dishwasher, removed from under counter, removed sump screen and retaining clamp from sump housing and then loosened seal from inside dishwasher cavity. Upon removal I went in search of a replacement part and found Parts Select on the web, entered my model and make at there web site and found the part I needed, I could verify the size by the easy picture on a one inch tile background for the dimenision . I called in the order since I wanted overnight service, I received the part and after cleaning the area where it goes I proceded to put things back together, this took about a hour and a half and the dishwasher is back in service

1) Remove kick plate of dishwasher.
2) Release DW from cabinet.
3) Slide DW forward 6-8" to reveal existing door springs.
4) Lift spring off of door and release spring from frame. Reattach new spring.
5) Slide DW back to original position; reposition to cabinet, and reattach kick plate.

I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)

Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.

1. Remove access panel under door. 2.Shut off hot water.3. Shut off electric to washer.4. Disconnect water line from water inlet valve.5. Remove small outlet water line from valve. Replace valve & reconnect. OR !!! 1.Take solenoid valve & bracket off of original inlet valve 2. Pull out white plastic diaphragm cover. 3. Remove diaphragm & clean out water holes with a pin. 4. Reassemble valve. 5. Reinstall original water inlet valve & save $27.00

I watched the video on repairing an LG front load washer. Even though mine is a washer/dryer all-in-one unit to repair was pretty much the same. the only real change with my unit is there are two screws in the area of the bottom filter/drain hose that needs to be removed to be able to take the bottom panel off. This will reveal two more screws to take the front door panel off. To avoid a wet mess, take a wet/dry vac and suck as much water out of the drain hose as you can and have to available to catch any left over water that spills when the hoses are removed. Another thing that can be very useful is to use a piece of cardboard. When you remove the various screws, push them into the cardboard and label each set for reassembly.

The shaft pulled out of the housing when I tried to get the push nut off. I had to take the pump housing out in order to get the shaft lined up with the valve when reassembling. In the end, the shaft had so much slop that no seal could keep it from leaking. Time for a new dishwasher.

First I removed the old gasket and seals. I replaced the seals and had difficulty getting the gasket to seal at the bottom of the door. I had to remove the seven door screws and was able to manipulate the gasket. Do not lift the inside door cover too far, as the latch may become disengaged, thus creating another problem to repair. I did this repair myself (female).

I first checked to make sure that there was not a clogged pipe. After making sure that was not the issue, I replaced the drain pump. It was VERY easy following this youtube video, step by step. The hardest part was the getting the ring (with a spring on it) back around the part by the door. I had someone help me stretch it, and hold it so that I could feed it back on. A tool to stretch the spring would have been helpful.

After removing the dish rack I unscrewed the center riser spray by turning it Clockwise and I removed the lower spray arm. I then removed the lower spray arm support using a phillips screw driver and replacer the worn water seal. I reversed the process and reassembled the sprayarm and center riser spray. Job completed!

I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.

Unscrewed old spray arm by hand. Screwed new one on by hand. Two minute job. New arm and tower were better than old one. Piece of cake at a very low price.

I followed the steps outlined on (several) web sites detailing the replacement process. Just Google " LG front load washer won't drain". A couple of small quirks cropped up that required some adaptations such as: I had to purchase an automotive hose clamp to reinstall the main tub drain hose to the pump manifold. I couldn't get the oem clamp back on. It kept slipping out to the jaws of my pliers and I don't own a pair of those clamp pliers that make the job easy. Also, the hex head/phillips screws used to attach the front panel to the frame were very tightly installed AND they had their heads rounded off! I didn't have the hand strength to make the phillips screwdriver loosen them so I used a pair of vise grips to carefully start the process and used the phillips to finish. Finally, the wire loop used to retain the big gasket that seals the front had door is tricky to reinstall. It took two people to get it right. All in all , the videos make the job pretty routine.