3ZAED4475TQ0 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Used the trouble shooting tips provided as a guide and a multimeter to test and find the defective part. Testing indicated no continuity thru the high limit thermostat. I ordered the part and received it in 3 days. Had the repair done a full week before the repairman could even come to the house and saved well over $100 in repair costs and 2 weeks or longer of down time. Great website and service.

Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

Removed old seal and replaced with new one. Save yourself time and get some acetone to remove old glue works great!

Kill power to dryer from breaker box.Remove lint filter & 2 screws. Take a flat head screw driver and place in gap between rash from corner of top panel & front panel of dryer and pry up to raise top panel of dryer & rest against wall the wall on angle do it doesn’t fall back toward you. Unplug wiring harness from dryer switch inside top front corner of dryer with outside of drum exposed when top panel of dryer is raised. Open dryer door and remove screws on each side of dryer switch located at upper inside corner of door opening. Take flat head screwdriver had slide in between connector & wiring harness on dryer. Remove old switch. Reconnect new dryer switch to wiring harness & remount switch to inside of dryer door opening. Lower top panel of dryer & press front corners of top panel to front panel of dryer & clips will be locked in place. Replace screws in dryer filter mounting holes yo top panel & replace dryer filter in place. Turn on power ‘ & check if light is working 1st. Then, turn timer knob clockwise, close door and listen if the drum is turning. Open door to see if drum turns. If both work, the job is complete.

It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.

Noticed the door switch was loose and the light bulb inside dryer didn't stay on. Researched the problem on PartSelect. Followed the directions given: Take 2 screws out of top of lint trap. Pry top off of dryer with putty knife. Unscrew 2 screws in dryer door frame holding in old switch. Uplug and remove old switch. Plug in new switch and put screws back in. Close top of dryer. Reinsert 2 screws in lint trap. My 20 yearn old dryer works!

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem

Grown daughter did the repair following instructions on your site........Unplug, take screws out of top by lint filter and with putty knife pry up top panel and lean back. Unplug elec. harness in front corner. A screw on each side of front panel removes that. Get old belt off and then we vaccumed all the lint from under and around drum. Put new belt around drum making sure not twisted and pull pulley as shown to make tight......... would have taken less time but we vaccumed all the lint from under and around the drum. Anyone could do this......

Pulled back off dryer as in video and followed directions. One part in the kit was not necessary. Just replaced the fuse and put it all together again and Voila! Dryer works again.