36598 (P1108404W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

I have an Amana freeze and I followed the procedure in the video. Which is very good! However on the Amana Model there two slight differences in the procedure that I felt I needed to do. The first one is, the condenser fan bracket is attached to the Freezer chassis with 4 screws, not three. The removal and installation of the back screw by the fan is a bear. I removed the other three and it allowed me to rotate the fan slightly to get more access to the fourth and did same on installation by just starting the 4th screw and then tightening it later. The second issue was my new fan hit the housing when I spun the fan. When I looked at the old one. It had a phenolic washer, between the fan and motor which spaces the fan out about a washer thickness from the motor. When I tried to remove the old one it broke in four pieces due to age. So, I made my own with a washer that I super glued to the motor housing after carefully centering it on and clearing the motor shaft . Seemed to work with out any more noise or balance issues...Thanks, your delivery was blindly fast and video was great!

I used the video on your website. It made me feel very satisfied that I was able to do it myself!

I unplugged the fridge. Then I removed the ice bucket. Then I removed the ice maker using a 3/4 socket to separate the connections and then used a small screwdriver to separate whatever connections were left. Then I installed the new ice maker and checked its level. Everything now works fine.

turned off freezer unplugged ice maker ,unscrewed 3 screws, removed ice maker,wiring harness and wire that goes up and down to control ice maker. installed all in reverse put back in and turned on waited and waited no ice ,theres a little control valve that let's the water in as well that was shot as well had to go get one at a local shop fairly interchangable just pull the other out and take with you,or just order one with your ice maker if you have the fridge out you might as well change it as it's just as old as the ice maker as well .everything pumping well,like never before, tons of ice all the time also put in filter on the water line as well really good tasteing ice now.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

The fix was relatively easy but I could not get 2 of the screws removed. They were in very tight and I didn't have the right tools. Also, in the Amana refridgerator, they are in a "difficult to get at" location. I called my plumber friend and he helped me. Once the screws were out, the rest of the job went very smoothly as others have described. We took out the bad icemaker and reconnected the new one to the existing harness. I had ice in an about an hour. Thanks so much, PartSelect. The delivery was quick and the install was as many described on your website. You provide a wonderful service for the "do it yourselfer". Terri

My husband took the door off and replaced the door closure cam kit with no problem the door opens without a sound.

First of all, I do not consider myself very handy. Most of my simple home repair projects include at least 2 trips to the local hardware store and take twice as long as they probably should. So if I can do this anyone can. For once, rather than just blindly throw new parts at a problem I did check the water pressure to the icemaker first and then even tested the icemaker with a multi-tester to determine what was wrong. I had $5.00 mulit-tester in my workbench but had never actually used it before, so I found step by step instructions on another website on how to test the motor and it turned out that one of the circuits in the main motor was in fact bad. Since the motor was around $80.00 dollars and the Whole unit that's inside your freezer is about $120.00 I decided it was best to just go ahead and replace the entire unit rather than just the motor. From what I saw online normally replacing an Ice maker is fairly simple. Remove 3 screws swap the prewired plug along with the metal arm then just reinstall it. Somehow whenever I try a home repair it's never that simple. First of all, our freezer is on the bottom so removing the screws holding the ice maker meant that I had to climb over, around and under the freezer shelves in order to get to the ice maker itself. Also one of the screws is not visible from the front so I had to hold a mirror in one hand while I tried loosening the screw with the other. Since the metal arm that turns off the ice maker is not included in the replacement it had to be moved over. Of course it was stuck, so it did take a little time to get it loose because I was being careful not to bend it and have to order another one. Finally installing the new icemaker meant once again that i was climbing over under and around the basket in the bottom level freezer. There is probably an easy way to remove the entire drawer but I couldn't find the release tabs so when just pulling harder on the drawer didn't work, I thought it best to just work around it. Still all in all, not a difficult job, just a little time consuming. The guy in the video did the swap in about 6 minutes, it took me about 45.

Installation was really easy since the replacement part was identical to the OEM part. Removed the three mounting screws with a nut driver. This allows one to remove the icemaker from the wall and disconnect the wire harness plug from the icemaker. I never unplugged the harness from the rear wall of the refrigerator. Put the new icemaker in place, making sure to place the water fill tube in the proper hole. Plugged the wire harness into the new icemaker and tightened the three mounting screws. The icemaker worked perfectly from then on with clean ice cubes and no leaks.

Took ice maker out all together we removed 4 to 5 screws had to remove axel to get the broken piece out and new one in my husband said it was easy in and out in about 15 minutes saved about 150. 00 Thanks partslect

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

Replaced icemaker by using total kit. Watched youtube video put on by partselect folks. Very easy to follow.

I checked the part number and an exact replacement was ordered. The old unit was removed and what I failed to note was that the water supply hose for the new unit entered from the side. Further examination showed a small "break-out" piece at the rear of the unit. but I still had to do something about the hole in the side. I used a piece of metal tape to close off that hole, trimmed it to size, and installed the unit. It was really an easy install after I figured out what to do about the hole. Evidently, this unit is mounted on the side of the freezer compartment in some models. Reading the reports of others was a big help.

I followed the video and advice from the many others on this site and only have a few additional comments. First, the decorative cover on the front of the old unit is held on with two plastic teeth on the top and bottom of the cover. This was not at all apparent and it took me awhile to figure it out. I used a sharp knife to pry up the top edge until the teeth lost their grip on the metal notches in the old unit. Second, don't try to pull the cables out of the front of the old unit before removing that cover. It is held in with a plastic snap that must be depressed after the cover is removed. The video does a good job explaining how to remove the old metal arm and attach it to the new unit so that it will recognize the ice level in the bucket. Finally, don't bother looking around the web site for a button that enables you to add to these comments. You'll be contacted by email in a week or two for that.

Unplugged the refrigerator.Removed the nut on the front bottom side from the support bracket with a nut driver.Pull down and out the old icemaker but not clear out to remove the electrical connector reaching to the back . Re-used the old front cover and the wire support clips and the wire connector assembly.Also put the shut off wire on the new icemaker.Re-installed in reverse sequence and waited for ice cubes to be made.Make sure the water line coming in the back goes to the ice tray.