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The ice maker door wouldn't open automatically
After replacing the solenoid several months ago, I concluded that the problem could only be the electronic circuit board that controls the timing and delay. The part arrived sooner than I expected. Installing it involved removing only six screws and unplugging two connections. The whole project took only about 10 minutes and now my ice maker works like new. Total cost was less than $55. Saved me several hundred dollars not to mention my personal time had I called in a repairman.
the left drawer slide rail was broken from years of use.
First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide. I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place. After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm. The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.
My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.
Make sure you put everything back in the order you took them out.
I had to back-track acouple of times because I put the shelf brackets back in before I had the back panel in.It was also alittle tight getting the thermostat snapped back on the refrigerant line because it is a tight space and I have big hands.For a first timer who has had minimal experiance it wasn't too tough.
First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.
1. Leaking water valve 2. Broken plastic ice bucket cover
1. Simply unscrewed the old valve, pulled out the two tubes leading to icemaker and water dispenser, unbolted the compression fitting (water supply), then reversed all that with the new valve. The two tubes had no fittings...simply press them into the holes and "voila", all finished. Worked fine. 2. Very simple replacement of the ice bucket cover...six phillips head screws, no problem. A 15 minute job which even my wife could have done.
VERY SATISFIED, MY COMPLIMENTS TO PARTSELECT. SHIPMENT ARRIVED IN TWO DAYS, AND ALTHOUGH THE ICE BUCKET COVER HAD TO BE SPECIAL ORDERED AND I WAS TOLD IT SHOULD TAKE 14 DAYS, IT ARRIVED PROMPTLY IN EXACTLY 14 DAYS. GREAT COMPANY.
I removed 6 screws, unplugged assembly that had motor attached,removed from fridg,replaced motor and reinstalled assembly, putting back 6 screws.works like new. thanks.
Remove back cover, exposing fan motor. Turn off power, remove nut on fan blades. Remove fan carefully, do not bend. Unhook wiring harness. Remove three screws that hold the motor on the back frame. Remove old motor, install new. Carefully, reinstall fan blades, hook up wiring, and your ready for tryout. Also do some cleaning while your there. Clean old fan blades with hot soapy water or contact cleaner. Everything runs better clean!
The Ice maker would not run through a cycle. It would fill with water and produce ice but would need a little help by pressing up on the ejector to run through its cycle. Otherwise, it would not bring the ice to the holding bend. Sometimes the water would not fill. The icemaker was making ice it just was not letting the ice maker run through its cycle so I figured it had to be the circuit board. I bought the circut board which was easy to install. 1) Turn off water line and unplug power. 2) Pop off front panel plate at ice cube select switch area. 3) Unscrew 4 screws that holds control panel housing in place. 4) Remove panel assembly by disconnecting two different wiring plugs. 5) Unscrew 2 screws that allows access to control circuit board at end cap. 6) Remove circuit board by sliding it out of the assembly housing. 7) Install new circuit control board in assemble housing and screw on end cap retainer. 8) Attach two electrical wiring plugs. 9) Install control board assemble housing into frig opening and secure with 4 screws. 10) Install front panel plate (pops on). 11) Plug in power and turn on water line.
After I bought what I thought I needed for the repair. I asked a friend to come over and look at it. He changed the the light socket and put the same light bulb in and it works great. I am returning the light switch but decided to keep the light bulb.
Getting on the internet was so easy. This was really very simple. Thank you for making what I thought would be a big ordeal into something very simple.
Take the back panel off inside of freezer side. Cut the wires off old Defrost Thermostat and strip the ends. Attach the wires of the new one and tighten with wire nuts. Put back panel back on.
Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...
Moving the refrigerator into my new (very old) house we had to remove the doors which resulted in a crimped hose and union
Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!