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Ice maker Stripper lost a tooth
First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.
Simple. UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. Remove set screw holding valve to frame, switch hoses one at a time into new valve, switch wires one set at a time from old to new, re-attach the new valve, turn on water , plug in fridge, check for leaks. 2-minute job.
Ice Maker was leaking all over freezer compartment
Pulled out the fridge, took off the cardboard back. Get a nut driver instead of screwdriver (easier). TURN OFF WATER NOW. UNPLUG FRIDGE NOW. Removed one screw holding valve. Pulled off electrical connectors. Use two small adjustable wrenches to remove water lines. Tag the plastic tubes (I marked RED and BLUE). Grab the new valve and try to stuff it into the same space. Whoops ! Dang plastic housing protecting the electrical from the water is in the way. Have to cut most of it out to make it fit. By the way, DONT follow the instructions about take the bracket off the OLD solenoid. You don't need it. Just throw it away. Connect the wires (remember to use the adapters sent with the new solenoid) Mount the new solenoid (now that the plastic is out of the way) with the one screw (nut driver). Hook up the supply water line (wrenches). Hook up the plastic tubes (aren't you glad you marked them ?). The tubes just push into the new solenoid, no more threads. I just left the plastic nuts on the tubing. TURN ON THE WATER. Check your connections for leaking. Do this before plugging in the fridge. If OK, plug in the fridge. Run some water on the door, look in about an hour to see if cubes are making now. Put cardboard back on fridge. Push fridge back against wall. CONGRATULATE YOURSELF ON A JOB WELL DONE.
Ice Maker wouldn't work, water tube freezing up, water leaking onto floor
My problem was that the tube from the water valve to the ice maker was freezing when the valve was malfuntioning and sending more water, causing it to back up and freeze in the reception tube. Then the plastic water tube from the valve to the freezer seperated and water was leaking onto the floor. By reading the repair storyies on the Partselect website I learned that the water valve was not working correctly and needed replacing. I ordered the replacement part on a Wednesday evening and had the part at my house via FEDEX on Saturday morning. It took me about 20 minuttes to complete the entire repair. I had shut the water off to the valve and unplugged the refrigerator. First I took the ice storage unit out of the freezer. I then unsrewed the ice making tray from the left side of the freezer. I lowered the unit to the shelve but did not disconnect the wiring. I then pulled the water reception tube that goes from the ice maker to the outside of the refrigerator on the top right rear. There was grozen water contained in the tube. I ran it under the sink and released the frozen water so the tube was clear. I reinserted into the tunnel it sits in and reattached it to the 90 degree plaqstic fitting in the outside of the right rear of the refrigerator.I reattached the plastic water hose from the water valve to the 90 degree fitting. I then reattached the ice maker in the freezer compartment. Using a nut driver I removered the rear cardboard cover and insulation from the right rear side of the refrigerator. Using a box wrench I unscrewed and disconnected the copper water tube from the valve. I then removed the srew holding the water supply copper tubing to the refrigerator and removed the srew holding the water valve in place. I removed the old valve from the back of the refrigerator. I then took note of the electrical connections and transferred them to the new valve. I needed the two adapters(supplied) for the right side electric terminal. I then transferred the water connection tubes. Take note one is larger than the other. On the old valve they screwed into the water valve with a compression nut. On the new valve you only needed to insert the plastic water tube into the right size hole and push. The comression connection is automatic and does not require the nut. ( I just pushed the nuts back on the tubing and left them). There is a plastic seperation piece on the new valve. I just twisted it loose and removed it. This allowed ease in positioning the valve and water tubes. I then inserted the new valve into the right rear of the refrigerator and resrewed the unit to the frame using the nut driver. I then re-attached the water supply copper tubing onto the nipple on the new valve and using a box wrench re-attached same. I then turned on the water supply to the refrigerator and checked for leaks. I then replugged the refrigerator into the electical outlet and started the ice maker cycle. I waited to see that all was working correctly. i then re-attached the insulation and cardboard cover on the rear of the refrigerator and pushed the unit back into the wall space. Everything is working great now!
Removed housing around timer. Unpluged and replaced timer. Defrosted freezer witk small portable heater. Freezer has worked greater since. Saved a lot on service call.
Solenoid controlling the valve had stopped operating.
I first tested to make sure the solenoid was receiving power. Every time the arm on the ice maker cycled, the meter would go up to 120v for about 10-15 seconds, and then back to almost 0, so I knew the electical control and timer was working as it should.
The valve was easy to change - took about 20 minutes total (including pulling the fridge out and pushing it back in). I just turned the water off, removed the valve assembly from the fridge, and took all of the lines off of the old one. I then hooked up the supply line to the new valve assembly. The lines to the water and ice had compression fittings on them, but the new vavle has a "push-in" connector. So, I cut the old water and ice lines squarely, just past the fitting, then pushed them in firmly. Plugged the connectors in, re-attached the vavle assembly to the fridge, turned the water back on, and viola - I had ice in about an hour! Gravy! :)
This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.
Removed panel from inside the back of the freezer section, by removing four screws. Then, sprayed the ice build-up on the coils, with hot water until all of the ice was melted away. (Note: be certain to plug the drain hole, and use several towels to catch the water drainage. ) Removed the Defrost Heater Element by removing two holding screws. Unplug the unit and pluged-in the new unit and replaced all screws as originally mounted.
Cams on Hinge assembly broken, door didn't close properly
I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height. Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door. I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts. I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.
Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.
Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.
Refrigerator would begin to lose it's cool and we saw ice caking on the bacjk panel of the freezer section.
We had to empty the freezing section, remove the 4 screws that held the back panel and defrost the coils. Then with the diagram we got from the internet, we removed the defroster and easily installed the new one and put the back panel back on. We did find later that it was still icing over so I ordered the thermostat and we installed it today. It too was easy to install. We spliced the wires and hooked the new thermostat to the old wires and reinstalled the back panel. Hopefully this will solve the problem for us now.
Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Removed the switch. Tested the switch with a multimeter. Ordered a new switch. Replaced it in the box. Installed the ice maker ( 3screws and electric cord plug. It works. Details available on the internet.
Left Side Veggy Drawer Slide Rail Broken . Drawer Drops Down
Empty veggy drawer. And slide out top glass shelf of drawer. Using philips screwdriver, remove (2) screws that hold rail to side wall of fridge. Replace with new slide . Slide glass shelf back in and then veggy drawer. 15 - 20 Minutes tops to fix. Tell wife if drawer doesent shut don't force it closed! (Overload it)
