31-3349-23-03 Tappan Range - Instructions

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

It snapped right into the drawer, was very easy

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

Apparently, the original insulation had been removed due to a mouse infestation-the unit had been in storage for a while. After removing about 50 screws, I had all the body panels off and cleaned out the interior of the stove then installed the new insulation. I put it all back together and hooked it up- works just like new. I only paid 60 bucks for this oven, so all in all, not a bad deal.

Pulled out heating elements. Removed old drip bowls. Inserted new drip bowls and re-installed heating elements.

I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.

pulled oven out, unplugged, unscrewed element attachment to the back of the oven (from the inside). element did not work. we tested the upper element and that did not work either. the burst of sparks, heat and flame from the shorting of the original element caused damage to the computer board. we called a local repair man to change the computer board, and then the unit worked, with our new element that we replaced!

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER OR UNPLUG FROM SOCKET! Removed back of range panel: easy
Disconnected wires to elements: easy (one broken off)
Replaced connector: easy
Pulled both elements out and replaced: easy
Tested and replaced range back panel: easy

Be careful when handling steel panels...they can cut your hands! Use nutdrivers, they're better than screwdrivers. Use a good flashlight.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. The I reversed the process to install the new element which was exactly the same as the burned out one.
At first I was on the verge of replacing the whole stove before I decided to google " range heating elements". I ordered the part from your company and it arrived promptly.
Needless to say, I am thrilled that I don't have to buy a new stove. This one now works perfectly!

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

When I found the part I needed there was an instructional video on how to remove broken bake element and install new bake element. This was the best video short and sweet and anyone...I mean ANYONE could do it!

Step 1- cut off the power supply (I flipped by breaker, but you could just unplug the oven)
Step 2- remove baking racks
Step 3- unscrew the little metal plates inside the oven where the bake element meets the back of the oven (reserve screws for new element)
Step 4- carefully pull the bake element out until you have the wires through the holes
Step 5- carefully pull the bake element from the wire clips on both sides
Step 6- take broken element out of over and put new one in
Step 7- slide new bake element ends onto wire clips
Step 8- slide new bake element and connected wires back though back of oven
Step 9- used saved screws to screw metal plates on bake element to the back of the oven
Step 10- replace oven racks
Step 11- restore power to range
Step 12- enjoy a working oven and feel like an absolute PRO for fixing it yourself!!!!

Took screws out back of oven to get to connectors . Pulled old conectors off Installed new element took about 5 min. Very easy job. Also good time to clean oven .

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.