2893 - Instructions

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).

I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.

After time, the heads of the mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.

Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.

First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.

To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).

Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.

I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.

To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.

If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.

I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.

I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.

The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).

Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).

If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.

Hope this helps.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

Determined how to proceed to disassemble the console. Unplugged the power cord, shut off the gas valve, removed six philips head screws from back panel and one philips head screw from side panel that held the front glass cover in place. Removed the nut off of the old switch body and the two oven control knobs and the timer/clock knob. Removed the front glass by pulling the right side forward and sliding it slightly to the right. Disconnected the two wires from the back of the old switch.Removed the nut holding the old switch body to the console frame. Replaced with the new switch and did a reassembly by backtracking my steps. I even remembered to clean both sides of the control console glass before reinstalling it. Placed the range back in position, checked it for level, plugged the power cord in and checked for the proper operation of the new switch, turned on the gas and checked for any possible leaks from moving the range. The switch was a perfect match. The picture on the grid paper background really helped in identifying the switch that I needed.

This is the second time PartSelect came through for me. If it hadn't been for you guys, I'd have had to buy a new Jenn-Air cooktop, because ours is nearly 30 years old. About two years ago, I bought a new two-burner cartridge, which installed without tools in about one minute. But a few weeks ago, we lost the burner in the other cartridge. I emailed PartSelect, and even though I gave them my obsolete model number, a helpful service rep managed to find me the part number of the correct burner, so I was able to place my order. Once the part arrived, there was no problem replacing the burner. This is a simple operation we've performed many times when we need to remove the burner for cleaning.

Plugged in the new burner, which we received in one day.We were delighted with the quick service

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

First I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven. Then, I removed the base of the oven (the oven floor) by easily removing two screws. I also removed the flame guard by removing a screw. That easily exposed the old oven igniter. I removed the two small screws that held that in place. The igniter is connected by two wires, which you'll have to snip. Snip those very close to the igniter (leave about an inch of wire on the igniter). Using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath of the existing wires. On the new igniter, snip the wires leaving about 2 inches still connected to the igniter. Using the wire stippers, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath. Using the plastic wire caps that came with the new igniter, connect the wires from the oven to the corresponding wire on the new igniter. Screw the new igniter back in place. Replace the flame guard and oven floor. Turn on the circuit breaker and start cooking again!

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

Put a new one in.

snapped the new piece of plastic in its place and ta da, its fixed.